Construction

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Revision as of 02:52, 25 May 2021 by Studenterhue (talk | contribs) (Update sprite for standard chest)
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For the discontinued job, see Construction Worker. For the discontinued game mode, see Construction Game Mode.

All this assumes you've figured out the game pretty well so far. You have, right?

Machinery

Space Pod

Lightpod.png Heavypod.png Miningpod.png Coolpod.png Goldpod.png

Be advised that you have to stand adjacent to the south west corner of the pod in order to construct it, since it is a 64x64 sprite. Use a bottle of champagne on the finished pod to give it a unique name.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Deploy the frame kit by clicking on the box.
  2. Wrench the jumble of metal. It should look less like a pile of junk.
  3. Wrench again. It should look like a functional but unsecured frame of a space pod.
  4. Use the welder.
  5. Insert wires.
  6. Place the circuitry inside the frame.
  7. Add metal to the frame.
  8. Install the engine manifold.
  9. Put armor on the pod frame.
  10. Use the welder.
  11. Install the control interface.
  12. Add the reinforced glass sheets.
    • Optionally, use the paint job kit on the finished pod.

MiniPutt

MiniPutt.png NanoPutt.png IndyPutt.png XeniPutt.png PyriPutt.png

Some of the key components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same. And as with space pods, you can rename the finished craft with a champagne bottle.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Follow the Space Pod guide.

Computers

Console

CommunicationsComputer.png CloningConsole.png DNAConsole.png SupplyRequestConsole.png QuartermastersConsole.png

Intended for computers built from a single circuit board. Console frames don't accept mainboards and peripheral cards. If there're other machines associated with the console, e.g. cloning pod and scanner or portal ring and generator, build/deploy those first. If you build the computer first, then the accessory machines, you'll have to disconnect and reconnect the monitor with a screwdriver to get the console to recognize them.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal and choose Console frame.
  2. Wrench the frame into place.
  3. Insert the circuit board.
  4. Use the screwdriver.
  5. Add wires.
  6. Use the glass on the frame.
  7. Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver
  2. Crowbar
  3. Wirecutters
  4. Screwdriver
  5. Crowbar (removes circuit board)
  6. Wrench
  7. Welder

Terminal

ComputerTerminal.png

Useful for computers built from components and peripherals. Wired computers (as in part of a network) will need to be positioned over a data terminal (deployable with the help of a mechanic), which in turn has to be connected to the power grid.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal and choose choose Computer terminal frame.
  2. Wrench the frame into place.
  3. Insert the computer mainboard.
  4. Use the screwdriver.
  5. Insert the peripheral cards (up to 2).
  6. Add wires.
  7. Insert the storage drive.
  8. Use the glass on the frame.
  9. Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver
  2. Crowbar
  3. Crowbar (removes hard drive)
  4. Wirecutters
  5. Crowbar (removes all modules)
  6. Screwdriver
  7. Crowbar (removes motherboard)
  8. Wrench
  9. Welder

Heavy

GenericComputer.png

Some of the components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal and choose choose Computer frame.
  2. Wrench the frame into place.
  3. Insert the computer mainboard.
  4. Use the screwdriver.
  5. Insert the peripheral cards (up to 3).
  6. Add wires.
  7. Insert the storage drive.
  8. Use the glass on the frame.
  9. Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver
  2. Crowbar
  3. Crowbar (removes hard drive)
  4. Wirecutters
  5. Crowbar (removes all modules)
  6. Screwdriver
  7. Crowbar (removes motherboard)
  8. Wrench
  9. Welder

Intercom

IntercomV2.png

The only way to make intercoms is to replicate them using Mechanics' ruckingenur kit.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the intercom with the deconstruction device to open the deconstruction interface. This should bring up four buttons, "Screw", "Pulse", "Wrench", and "Cut".
  2. While you're holding the deconstruction device in your off-hand, do these steps in any order:
    • Click on the "Screw" button with the screwdriver.
    • Click on the "Wrench" button with the wrench.
    • Click on the "Cut" button with the wirecutters (or equivalent).
    • Click on the "Pulse" button with the multitool.
  3. Click on the microwave with the deconstruction device again to finally deconstruct it. After a delay, this will give you a microwave frame that can be deployed later with a soldering iron.

Electric Chair

To change the default frequency/code, you must click on the electropack while you're holding it, and modify it from the pop-up interface. Electric chairs can be remotely activated, but must be toggled on before usage (right click, and select controls). Also, the room must have power for the chair to work. Said power can come from two sources: the local APC (capped at ~80 BURN) or a direct, wired connection to the power grid (scales with the engine's output, and can even vaporize somebody).

You will need:

To make:

    • Optionally, lay wires using the cable coil to create a direct connection to the power grid.
  2. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  3. Build a chair. Optionally, place it on the same tile as the prepared wiring.
    • Optionally, change the electropack's default frequency and code.
  4. Use the helmet on the electropack.
  5. Attach the helmet/electropack assembly to the chair.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the electric chair with a wrench in your active detach the shock pack from the chair.
  2. Click on the shock pack to get an electropack and helmet back.

Light fixtures

These fixtures, installed by Nanotrasen or otherwise, are controlled by the local APC. Light tubes and bulbs may be obtained from boxes (ask the janitor) or a general manufacturer.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Turn the metal sheets into one set of light fixture parts.
  2. Attach the parts to a wall.
  3. Insert the light tube or bulb, depending on the type of fixture.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Turn off the lights in the room OR smash the light tube or bulb.
  2. Remove the light tube or bulb.
  3. Use the screwdriver on the light fixture to disassemble it.

Neon lining

Lining runs off its own internal power source that never runs out, so you can deploy it in areas that have no power.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the floor tile of interest with the neon lining is in your hand to lay down neon lining on that tile. This consumes one length of lining.
    • Optionally, before laying down lining, click on the neon lining while it's in your hand to cycle through the possible colors. Available colors include yellow, blue, and pink.
    • Optionally, set the shape by clicking on it with a wrench. There are 6 possible shapes, all of which run across the borders/sides of a tile: a line that's a tile long, a line that goes only half as far, a square/circle/O-shape, a U-shape, a tile-length L-shape, and a half-tile-length L-shape.
    • Optionally, change which direction the lining's facing by clicking on it with a screwdriver.
    • Optionally, configure the pattern of the glows on the ends of the lining by clicking on it with a multitool. You can set it so there's a glow on both ends, glow at the right end, glow at the left end, or no glow at all. Note you cannot change glow for the O-shape.
    • Optionally, turn the lining on/off by clicking on it with wirecutters.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the neon lining with the crowbar to remove it. You do not have to turn it off to remove it.

Station Bots

Cyborgs

Main article: Roboticist#Construction

AI shells

Main article: Roboticist#AI shells

Other robots

Main article: Robots

APCs

APCV2.png

Deploying an APC this way automatically creates a data terminal under it, so to power the APC, you simply have to lay wire under the terminal and to a power source or cable that already has power.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the device analyzer on an APC.
  2. Click the ruckingenur kit in Mechanics with the analyzer you used.
  3. Use the ruckingenur kit to create an APC blueprint.
  4. Put each blueprint into the reverse-engineering fabricator (or any fabricator)
  5. Use the fabricator to fabricate a deploy box frame for the APC.
  6. Put the box frame in the area of interest.
  7. Use the soldering iron to create an APC.
    • Optionally, click on the hand labeler to set a name for the APC.
    • Optionally, use the hand labeler to name the APC.

This is for APCs that have been completely broken (they have a damaged sprite and the area is left unpowered), not APCs that have had their wires shorted.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Use the screwdriver on the APC.
  2. Add the wire. Wait.
  3. Wrench the APC. Wait.
  4. Apply the mulitool.
  5. Finally, use the screwdriver on it again.

ATMs

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the ATM with the deconstruction device to open the deconstruction interface. This should bring up a "Pulse" button.
  2. While holding the deconstruction device and multitool, click with the "Pulse" button.
  3. Click on the ATM with the deconstruction device again to finally deconstruct it. After a delay, this will give you an ATM frame that can be deployed later.

Shooting an ATM with a lethal bullet will instantly destroy it and make it spew out a small stack of cash, always either a 10-, 50, or 100-credits stack. Hitting it with a blunt object can also do the trick. It has to do at least 5 damage, and the ATM has 70 health.

Microwaves

MicrowaveNew.png

Microwaves can be scanned using Mechanics. The trick is to scan it while it's in operation, so you don't accidentally microwave your analyzer.

MicrowaveBroken.png

If the microwave is just dirty ( MicrowaveMessy.png ), use a spray bottle of space cleaner. A completely broken unit has to be fixed with some tools.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Use the screwdriver on the microwave.
  2. Finish the job with a wrench.

It's a good idea to do this while microwave's in operation or wreck it first, so you don't accidentally insert your tools into the microwave. You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the microwave with the deconstruction device to open the deconstruction interface. This should bring up two buttons, "Screw" and "Wrench".
  2. While you're holding the deconstruction device in your off-hand, do these steps in any order:
    • Click on the "Screw" button with the screwdriver.
    • Click on the "Wrench" button with the wrench.
  3. Click on the microwave with the deconstruction device again to finally deconstruct it. After a delay, this will give you a microwave frame that can be deployed later.

You will need:

To wreck:

  1. Insert item of choice into microwave.
  2. Turn the microwave on.

You'll get the item you put in back.

Manufacturers

Fabricator.png

While they can't quite be constructed, all manufacturers can be replicated with the equipment in the Mechanics Workshop. See the relevant Mechanic section for more.

If you click on a fabricator, and you get a message saying "The screen is blank", then it means the fabricator is either broken or the APC's Equipment power for the area is off. If you've ruled out the latter, you need to do the steps below:

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
  2. Depending on the severity of the damage, use the welder (when the Examine text for the machine says it's "a bit damaged") or cable coil (when the Examine text says it's "rather badly damaged").
  3. Use the screwdriver again to close the panel.

Keep in mind that completely dismantled fabricators can't be replaced without the help of electronics!

You will need:

To break:

  1. Open the outer cover with the wrench.
  2. Use the crowbar to pry off the cover.
  3. Remove the wiring with the wirecutters.
  4. Undo the final bolts with the wrench.

Material Processor

MaterialProcessor.png

Material processors are stationary machines that transform materials into more refined forms and are often found in the presence of material science devices.

The material processor can only be built via the Mechanics' ruckinengur system.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the material processor with the deconstruction device to open the deconstruction interface. This should bring up six buttons, "Screw", "Wrench", "Pry", "Weld", "Cut", and "Pulse".
  2. While you're holding the deconstruction device in your off-hand, do these steps in any order:
    • Click on the "Screw" button with the screwdriver.
    • Click on the "Wrench" button with the wrench.
    • Click on the "Pry" button with the crowbar.
    • Click on the "Weld" button with the lit welder.
    • Click on the "Cut" button with the wirecutters.
    • Click on the "Pulse" button with the multitool.
  3. Click on the material processor with the deconstruction device again to finally deconstruct it. After a delay, this will give you a material processor frame that can be deployed later.

Cloning Lab

CloningConsole.png CloningMachineScannerOffV2-32x32.gif ClonePodV2-32x32.png EnzymaticReclaimerV2-32x32.png

So you want to create a new cloning lab for completely legitimate purposes? You will need to use a combination of mechanic skills and tools in addition to raw materials.

We are going to be using some information from other places to do this, namely console construction as well as the device analyzer and its related processes

You will need:

To begin:

  1. Use the device analyzer on the cloning pod, the enzymatic reclaimer and the cloning scanner pod
  2. Once all three are scanned, click the ruckingenur kit in mechanics with the scanner used
  3. Use the ruckingenur kit to create a blueprint for each of the three
  4. Put each blueprint into the reverse-engineering fabricator
  5. From the reverse-engineering fabricator make a deployable box frame for each of the three scanned objects.
  6. Find a suitable location and plan your deployment of machinery, noting that each piece of peripheral machinery must be directly adjacent to the cloning console you will be creating (diagonal adjacency qualifies as well). Think carefully about how people will be moving around your new cloning lab, and which devices they may need to enter, exit, and move around.
  7. Place the individual box frames on the ground in their final positions and use the soldering iron on them.

To create the final piece, the cloning console:

  1. Click on the metal sheet in your hand and choose 'Console frame'.
  2. Wrench the frame into place.
  3. Insert the cloning circuit board.
  4. Use the screwdriver.
  5. Add wires, this will require a couple of clicks.
  6. Use the glass on the frame, this will require a couple of clicks.
  7. Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

In the event that you constructed the console first, simply use a screwdriver on it to remove the glass, then apply new glass and use the screwdriver again to have it reboot to detect the peripheral devices. Using a multitool on the computer will accomplish similar, since it makes the machine attempt to scan for the relevant equipment.

If this is constructed in an existing area of station that is governed by a nearby APC, then the devices you have constructed will be reliant on that status of that APC. Direct wiring to the console or devices is not necessary.

If you want multiple cloning pods, the cloning console supports it, up to max of three pods. You do not need multiple computer consoles; you just need to have the cloning pods within 4 tiles of the computer. If you want to change the name of the clone pod, use a hand labeler.

Junction Boxes

JunctionBox1.png JunctionBox2.png JunctionBox3.png

Malfunctioning junction boxes are easily identifable, as they periodically emit sparks. Thanks to the kindness of imcoders, Examining the junction box hints at what you need to do next when repairing a junction box.

It's highly recommended to wear insulated gloves to protect from electric shock.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Click on the junction box to open it.
  2. Click on it with the screwdriver to unscrew the casing bolts.
  3. Cut away the damaged cables with the wirecutters.
  4. Use the cable coil on the box to replace the wires.
  5. Snip off the excess wire with the wirecutters.
  6. Use the screwdriver on the box to screw the bolts back on.

Magnetic Tether

MagneticTether.gif

If the magnetic tether has been brought down by explosions or similar, it is possible to repair it.

It's highly recommended to wear insulated gloves to protect from electric shock.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Click on it with the screwdriver to unscrew the casing.
  2. Cut away the damaged cables with the wirecutters.
  3. Use the cable coil on the box to replace the wires.
  4. Snip off the excess wire with the wirecutters.
  5. Use the screwdriver on the box to screw the casing back on.

Gas pipes

This covers pipes that transport atmospherics gases, such as those used in the TEG, rather than the pipes that carry items, like those in Waste Disposals.

A pipe is said to be "ruptured" if sprite shows there's a break in the pipe, but most of the pipe is otherwise intact. The process of fixing it is relatively simple. Ruptured pipes leak gas, naturally. Not all pipes can rupture.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Click on the ruptured pipe with the welder to fix some damage. You may need to do this multiple times to fully repair the pipe.

A pipe is said to be "destroyed" if sprite shows just a little bit of piping left. If you Examine a destroyed pipe, part of its description will say "The remnants of a section of pipe that needs to be replaced. Perhaps rods would be sufficient?" Destroyed pipes tend to leak gas until repaired. Not all pipes can enter the "destroyed" state.

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Click on the destroyed pipe with the rods to put down some replacement piping.
    • At this point, the description will now mention, "A one meter section of ruptured pipe still looks salvageable through some careful welding."
  2. Click on the pipe you just placed down with the welder to complete repairs. You may need multiple welds.

All these steps have a delay.

In addition to bombs, pipes can also break from excess pressure. When the difference between pressure inside the pipe and pressure outside it exceeds a certain value, called the pipe's fatigue pressure, the pipe can rupture, and it may rupture further if the difference goes above two times and four times the fatigue pressure. At the ten times the fatigue pressure, the pipe may enter the "destroyed" state.

Heat exchanger pipes and pipe junctions have infinitely high fatigue pressure and thus cannot break from excess pressure, but most other pipes have a fatigue pressure of 15198.75 kPa.

Clothing

Makeshift armor

MakeshiftArmor32x32.png

Craftable armor with a drawback. It reduces damage from melee attacks to the chest and limbs by 4 and reduces ranged damage to the same areas by about 45%. However, because of its awkward fittings, it significantly reduces your movement speed.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the welder while it's in your hand to turn it on.
  2. Click on the cyborg chest with the welder.

Armored exosuit

Armoredbiosuit.png ArmouredParamedicSuitV2-32x32.png ArmouredFiresuitV2-32x32.png

You will need:

To make:

  1. Hold the body armor in your hand and attach it to the exosuit.

Skull mask

SkullV2.png

Custom masks are named after the former owner of the skull.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Hollow out the skull with the circular saw.

Paper mask

PaperMask.png

Standard pens contain black ink, but you can also use a marker or a crayon.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Cut the paper with the scissors or wirecutters.
  2. Use the cable coil on the unfinished mask.
    • Optionally, colour the mask with the pen.

Bucket helmet

BucketHelmet.png

You will need:

To make:

  1. Cut eye holes with the wirecutters.

Cardboard box disguise

CardboardBoxes.gif

"Yeah, well, anyway. I suppose even that dumbass box might make a decent disguise if you wear it inside a building."

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the wrench on the pizza box or packing crate to get cardboard sheets.
  2. Pick up the cardboard sheets and click on the sheets while you're holding it.
  3. Choose the Cardboard Box. This requires at least two sheets
    • Optionally, but highly recommended, cut eye holes on the box with the scissors or wirecutters.
    • Optionally, attach the moustache to the cardboard box.
    • Optionally, draw a face on the box with a crayon.

Ghost disguise

BedsheetV3.png

You will need:

To make:

  1. Cut eye holes with the scissors or wirecutters.

Cape

Capes.png

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the cable coil on the bedsheet.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wirecutters/scissors to cut the cable coil holding the cape together.

Rocket Shoes

RocketShoes.png

How many uses you get out of these depend on the type of tank: 2 (emergency O2), 4 (large air or O2) or 6 (jetpack). Do not expect much in the way of steering either way. Rocket shoes are technically disposable, but you can build another pair by taping a replacement gas tank to it.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the gas tank on the shoes.

Shackles

Shackles.png

Forces the wearer to move at walking speed.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the handcuffs on the orange shoes.

You will need:

  • Nothing. Besides a hand slot.

To break:

  1. Click on the shackles in-hand to deattach the cuffs.

Fingerless Gloves

FingerlessGloves.png

They don't provide much in the way of protection and can't hide fingerprints at all. But dang they look cool.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the black gloves with the tool of choice to snip off the tips and create fingerless gloves.

Fruit Hat

FruitHat.png

A neat hat made out of a lot of fruit. It's edible too!

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the fruit with a the cable coils. This will create a fruit hat assembly
  2. Click on the assembly with a valid fruit, wait until it is added to the assembly. Repeat this step 6 more times.
  3. Secure the assembly by clicking on it with a screwdriver.

Walls, Doors, and Floors

Airlocks

Airlock64.png

While they can't quite be constructed, airlocks can be replicated with the equipment in the Mechanics Workshop. Replicas will usually retain access restrictions of the original airlock. See the relevant Mechanic section for more.

Airlocks that aren't in the Adventure Zone or the CentComm level can be busted down with a good source of blunt damage and some patience. Lots of patience. As in, enough patience to break down something with 1200 health often more. Expect it to take a few minutes at least. If you need to step it up, try something like the airlock breaching hammer, a cyalume saber, fireaxe, or red chainsaw, all of which do extra damage to doors.

You can also destroy doors by shooting at them, and the amount it'll take depends on the projectile, for certain bullet types do more damage than others. Generally, you need to dump a mag or two to break down a door using kinetic bullets and multiple full rechargers with energy ones.

If you need specifics, armor-piercing bullets are generally the best, for they do 4 times their damage against doors (e.g. a .308 rifle round, which does 85, will do 260). Regular kinetic bullets (e.g. a .38 FMJ round) do 3 times, and energy bullets (e.g. lasers from an energy gun) 2 times. Bullets that cause burning (e.g. flares) normal damage, and radioactive projectiles (e.g. radbow shots) do half. Nonlethal bullets like those from a taser can't damage doors at all, though projectiles that both drain stamina and cause physical damage can, but not as much as bullets that simply cause damage.

They can also be hacked to the point of being non-functional.

Walls

While you usually make walls with steel and mauxite, they can be substituted with any kind of metal or crystal, so long as you get it into sheet form. Glass walls are especially useful, since they provide a view but can't be easily destroyed and are often stronger than windows.

Regular Walls

This only works with metal sheets.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Wall Girders.
  3. Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.

You will need:

  • GlassV2.png SteelSheetV2.png Four sheets of metal or crystal. (Usually steel, but glass is fine too)

To make:

  1. Click on any tile while you're holding the sheets to build a girder.
  2. Add plating by clicking on the girder with the sheets.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Welder
  2. Crowbar to dislodge girders OR
  3. Wrench to dismantle girders

Reinforced Walls

This only works with metal sheets.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Wall Girders.
  3. Reinforce the metal sheets by clicking on the metal sheets with the rods in your hand.
  4. Reinforce two sheets.
  5. Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
  6. Use the remaining reinforced metal sheets to add the plating.

You will need:

  • GlassV2.png SteelSheetV2.png Four sheets of metal or crystal (metal is most frequent, but glass works too)
  • SteelRodsV2.png Two rods

To make:

  1. Click on any tile while you're holding the sheets to build a girder.
  2. Reinforce the sheets by clicking on the sheets with the rods in your hand. Reinforce two sheets.
  3. Pick up and stack the reinforced sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
  4. Use the remaining reinforced sheets to add the plating.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Wirecutters
  2. Screwdriver
  3. Welder
  4. Crowbar
  5. Wrench
  6. Welder
  7. Crowbar
  8. Screwdriver
  9. Wirecutters
  10. Wrench

Windows

Glass isn't the only thing you can build windows from. Whatever you can do with glass sheets, you can do with sheets of other crystalline materials.

Regular window (one direction)

Windows will be built in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the glass while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Thin Window.
    • Optionally, unsecure the window by using the screwdriver, then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
  2. If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window

OR

  1. Use heavy objects to break

Regular window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the glass while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Large Window.
    • Optionally, secure the window by using the screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
  2. If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window

OR

  1. Use heavy objects to break

Reinforced window (one direction)

Windows will be built in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Combine the rod with the glass sheet.
  2. Click on the glass while you're holding it.
  3. Choose Thin Window.
    • Optionally, unsecure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver, then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
  2. If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window

OR

  1. Use heavy objects to break

Reinforced window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Combine the rods with the glass sheets.
  2. Pick up and stack the reinforced glass sheets.
  3. Click on the glass while you're holding it.
  4. Choose Large Window.
    • Optionally, secure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
  2. If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window

OR

  1. Use heavy objects to break

Grilles

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the rods while you're holding them.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Wirecutters to destroy

OR

  1. Screwdriver to unsecure, then push out

Note: Some grilles are electrified, as such it would be wise to have Insulated Gloves on before attempting to destroy or dislodge it. Alternatively, hit it repeatedly with a shard of glass to avoid a shock.

Floors

Regular Floors

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the rods on a Space or Seafloor tile to create a lattice
  2. Place a floor tile on top of the lattice to create some plating.
  3. Place another floor tile to add some tiling.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use a floor tile on a Space or Seafloor square to create some flooring.
  2. Place another floor tile to add some tiling.

Reinforced Floors

These are fire- and explosion-resistant and can accommodate Space Pods.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the rods on a Space or Seafloor tile to create a lattice
  2. Place a floor tile on top of the lattice to create some plating.
  3. Use the rods on the plating to create a reinforced floor.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use a floor tile on a Space or Seafloor square to create some flooring.
  2. Use the rods on the plating to create a reinforced floor.

Barricades

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the rods on a Space or Seafloor tile to create a lattice.
  2. Use more rods on the lattice to create the barricade.
    • Optionally, reinforce it with more rods.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use a welder to disassemble the barricade.

Hidden Doors

A hidden door looks just like your standard wall--until you click on it (sometimes it takes a few clicks) to slide it out like a door!

Just like in Doom and similar games, hidden doors don't need extra clearance. It's okay if the wall will slide into another wall.

Hidden Door - Regular Wall

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Wall Girders.
  3. Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
  4. Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the screwdriver to dismantle the false wall.
  2. Disassemble the displaced girder with the wrench.

Hidden Door - Reinforced Wall

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Wall Girders.
  3. Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods three times.
  4. Use one reinforced metal sheet to reinforce the girder.
  5. Use the crowbar on the reinforced girder to dislodge it.
  6. Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to add the plating.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the screwdriver to dismantle the false wall.
  2. Disassemble the displaced girder with the wrench.

Catwalks

There are no known methods of construction, but the catwalks around the station can be partially disassembled.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Wirecutter to cut apart the catwalk surface.
  2. Wirecutter again to finish cutting apart the catwalk surface. Catwalk supports will remain.

Catwalks can also corrode if exposed to certain acids via certain means, e.g. beaker splashes. Fluorosulfuric acid causes damage corresponding exactly to its volume (e.g. 10 units takes away 10 health), while sulfuric acid does half its volume in damage. Damage is reduced the more corrosion-resistance the material is.

Catwalks can also be melted by a handful of incendiary chemicals, again only when applied via specific methods. Phlogiston cause damage 1:1 to volume (e.g. 13 units takes away 13 health), ClF3 twice its volume (i.e. 1:2), and FOOF thrice its volume (i.e. 1:3).

Railings

Railings block movement in one direction, but allow it in others, like thin windows. Unlike thin windows though, these do not block flow of fluid puddles. You can click on a railing with an empty hand or sprint into it (Hotkey: Shift for Goon WASD, Space for /tg/style WASD) to try to vault over it. This takes one second to do, half that if you have the Athletic trait. Creatures that can move under tables, e.g. mice, roaches, can also through railings.

You can also click on a railing with a screwdriver to fasten/unfasten them, toggling whether they can be moved around.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal sheet while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Railing.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the welder while it's in your hand to turn it on (Hotkey: C for Goon WASD, Z for /tg/style WASD).
  2. Click on the railing with the welder to disassemble it.

Reinforced Railings

These behave exactly like regular railings, but they do block flow of fluids, creatures that can move through tables, notably chickens, can't move through these. They're a common sight in the Ranch.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal sheet while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Railing.
  3. Click on the newly-constructed railing with the rod to add reinforcement to it.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the railing with the wirecutters to remove the reinforcements.
  2. Click on the welder while it's in your hand to turn it on (Hotkey: C for Goon WASD, Z for /tg/style WASD).
  3. Click on the railing with the welder to disassemble it.

Entire Rooms

ABCU-Idle.gif ABC-UMarker.png

You can replicate entire rooms with ABC-Us and blueprint markers from Cog2's Cold Loop and Cog1's Warehouse. More are always available from Cargo's ABCU Unit Crates, regardless of map.

You don't need to replicate entire rooms. You can pick a section of it or multiple sections to create different rooms. The blueprint marker can create multiple blueprints before running out of energy. This way you can pick all the pieces you want in advance and put them together in a new configuration. Remember to save them with their own names so you don't get them mixed.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Select tiles using blueprint marker.
  2. Click on the blueprint marker in-hand and choose the aptly named Print Blueprint to, well, print a blueprint of the things you just scanned. (If you can no longer print the blueprint from that specific blueprint marker, save the blueprint. You will then be able to print it from other markers.)
  3. Put the blueprint in the ABC-U.
  4. Check the material cost on the ABC-U by clicking on the unit and choosing Check Materials. Load accordingly. Fortunately for you, material costs are in sheets rather than bars/blocks.
  5. Drag the ABC-U into position.
  6. Lock it down by clicking on the ABC-U unit and choosing Lock.
  7. Click on the ABC-U unit again and choose Start Beginning to start construction.

Note: ABC-Us can only make new rooms on space tiles, so having EVA equipment is a must.

Weapons

Cloth fabric

A rag of fabric, not for cleaning messes, treating wounds, or strangling, but for muzzling people. Aggressively grabbing someone with the fabric (while on Grab intent, click on the victim with the fabric. Then upgrade the grab, by either clicking on them, clicking on the fabric, or pressing either C for Goon hotkeys or Z for tg-style hotkeys; if it fails, try it again) makes any words they say come out as an indecipherable bunch of letters, e.g. "fMMMMMP".

It can also be doused with up to 10 units of chemicals, so that when the person is strangled with the fabric (once you have them in aggressive grab, click on them or the item in your hand or pressing C for Goon hotkeys or Z for tg-style hotkeys to upgrade the grab. Make sure to remove any mask or headwear that might prevent you from gripping their neck), they're forced to inhale its contents a la the chloroform rag of fiction. More specifically, this triggers the INGEST effects of the chem(s) used and transfers them to the victim 0.5 units at a time every few seconds.

Clicking on a manufacturer/fabricator with a piece of cloth fabric also allows you to add it to the machine as material for assembling products.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the towel/bedsheet while it's in your hand. Choose to Rip up the towel/bedsheet.
    • Optionally, click on the fabric with beaker/container of chems to douse the fabric with it.

Stun gloves

Stungloves.png

Insulated gloves that have a special attack where, if you're unarmed, you can shoot off some sparks, which can travel up to two tiles away and in one of the 8 cardinal directions. These sparks warm up people by about 4 degrees Celsius and cause around 2-5 BURN, but more importantly drain 50 stamina and cause Disorient, making them move more slowly and more erratically.

Stun gloves hold up to four charges at a time. Recharging a pair of stun gloves takes 1500 charge.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Add some wiring to the gloves.
  2. Use the power cell on the gloves to charge them.

Stunhat

StunhatBlue.png StunhatGreen.png StunhatRed.png

Get it? When someone violates your personal space and pats you on the head while you're wearing this hat, the hat releases some sparks, and the attacker gets Disoriented, Stunned, and Weakened for a few seconds. This holds only one charge at a time.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Add some wiring to the hat.
  2. Click on the hat with the cell in-hand to charge them. This takes 1500 charge from the cell.

Flamethrower

FlamethrowerV3-32x32.gif

Welding fuel is a solid choice. You can also fill the tank with other reagents, so there is plenty of room for experimentation. See Chemistry for more information.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the screwdriver on the welder.
  2. Attach the rod to the welder.
  3. Combine the igniter with the welder/rod assembly.
  4. Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
  5. Attach the air mix or oxygen tank to the assembly.
  6. Add the fuel tank to the assembly.

Antique laser gun

AntiqueLaserGun.png

See Guns for more information.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
  2. Add wiring.
  3. Install the small coil.
  4. Solder the coil into place.
  5. Install the lens.
  6. Use the multitool.
  7. Install the power cell.
  8. Close the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.

Zip gun

ZipGun.png

Zip guns can use different types of ammunition, with exception of most of the larger calibers/calibres. However, more powerful ammunition makes the gun more likely to fail, causing it to explode on the next pull of the trigger. .22 LR is a popular choice and one of the easiest to obtain as it can come from a hacked general manufacturer. The zip gun holds two rounds at a time.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
  2. Use the welder on the frame.
  3. Combine the staple gun with the frame.

Flash/cell assembly

FlashCellAssemblyV2-32x32.png

In addition to draining somewhat more stamina than a regular flash, this overcharged version also sets them on fire. The more charge in the battery, the more stamina drained, and the longer they'll be on fire. Unlike a regular flash, it will only work once, as the bulb will instantly burn itself out. Meanwhile, a huge portion of the battery charge will be drained, allowing some reuse.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Open the flash's battery compartment with the screwdriver.
  2. Attach the power cell to the flash.

You will need:

  • A screwdriver
  • A wrench

To break:

  1. Use the screwdriver to unscrew the access panel.
  2. Use the wrench to disassemble the assembly.

Poisoned surgery tools

Surgical Scissors.png Scalpel.png CircSaw.png SurgicalSpoon.png

Certain surgery tools can be dipped in up to 5 units of poison or some other reagent to transfer reagents with each stab, for fun and wacky effects. Each use applies 10% of the tool's damage times its transfer amount (usually 5) units of chems, so armor significantly reduces amount applied. For example, if the tool does 8 damage, and the armor blocks 3 damage, then only 2.5 (8-3 damage after armor reduction * 0.10 * 5) units will be applied. Once a tool runs out of chemicals, it must be recoated.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Dip the scalpel, saw or spoon in the beaker.

Poisoned arrows

Likewise, arrows from the nano-fab can coated with up to 3 units of poison or other reagents, injecting them upon hit.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Dip the arrow into the container.

Broken bottle

A passable melee weapon that makes a decent, better-than-average throwing weapon.

You will need:

  • A bottle, obviously.
  • A table to break the bottle upon.

To make:

  1. Make sure you're on Harm intent.
  2. Use the bottle on the table.

It might take a few attempts/bottles. By default, there's a 25% chance you'll successfully break the bottle; if you're drunk and/or if you're the Bartender, you're more likely to succeed. If you fail, reality will ensue, and the bottle will smash into a slightly less useful glass shard. If you're especially unlucky, the broken glass may cut your hand and make you bleed.

Silver Handcuffs

Werewolves cannot escape out of these when they're in werewolf form. They're weaker than the regular variety though. See more details here.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the container with the handcuffs in your active hand to coat them in silver.

Silver Bullets

22MagazineV3.png 22MagazineV3.png 38SpcSpeedloader.png 38SpcStunSpeedloader.png File:357APSpeedloader.png

These are extra deadly against Werewolves. When a silver bullet is embedded inside a Werewolf in werewolf form, every few seconds, they have a 60% chance to lose 30 Stamina and suffer 5-10 BURN and 1-3 TOX, in addition to the usual stuns and random damage associated with bullets being lodged inside people. In addition, upon impact, they also do some extra BURN and organ damage, based on the damage of the bullet.

This causes no extra sprite change when silvering bullets, but if you Examine a speedloader/magazine/clip of silvered bullets, it should show you "There are X silver bullets left!". Likewise with a gun loaded with silver bullets.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the container with the ammo in your active hand to coat them in silver.

The game doesn't distribute different amounts of silver among different numbers of bullets. For example, coating just one bullet in silver doesn't make an extra potent bullet with extra silver. Thus, you should opt for full magazines/speedloaders for efficiency. Effects are same across all bullet types too; aside from doing more damage upon impact, a silver .38 Spc doesn't cause any more damage inside a Werewolf than a silver .22 does, nor does a silver .38 Spc AP versus a .38 Spc FMJ.

Bombs

Detonator assemblies

Timers and other basic tools may be put together as assemblies, most of which can function as detonators for certain bombs. Not included is the health analyzer/igniter combination, a suicide bomb vest-specific trigger.

Igniter assembly

TimerIgniterAssemblyV2-32x32.png ProximityIgniterAssemblyV2-32x32.png RadioIgniterAssemblyV2-32x32.png

The bread-and-butter choice for most situations. Possible combinations include, from left to right, the timer/igniter assembly, the proximity/igniter assembly, and the radio/igniter assembly.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the screwdriver on the igniter.
  2. If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
  3. Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or signaller.
  4. Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wrench on the assembly to detach the components.

Signaller assembly

SignallerTimerAssemblyV2-32x32.png SignallerProxSensorAssemblyV2-32x32.png

Takes form of either a signaller/prox sensor assembly that sends a radio signal a set time after detecting nearby movement or a signaller/timer assembly that sends a radio signal after a countdown timer has finished. Doesn't work as an attachment, but can come in handy to remotely trigger bombs or door bolts.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the screwdriver on the signaller.
  2. Attach the signaller to the proximity sensor or timer.
  3. Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wrench on the assembly to detach the components.

Beaker assembly

ProximityIgniterBeakerAssemblyV3-32x32.png TimerIgniterBeakerAssemblyV3-32x32.png RadioIgniterBeakerAssemblyV3-32x32.png

Also called a beaker bomb and formally called, from left to right, proximity/igniter/beaker assembly, timer/igniter/beaker assembly, and radio/igniter/beaker assembly by the game. These assemblies are quite popular to release chemical smoke from a safe distance - for the user at least. Deadly in the hands of a skilled chemist. When triggered, the igniter will heat the mixture by 30 K (see ignition temperatures).

You will need:

To make:

  1. If the assembly has been secured beforehand, undo that with the screwdriver.
  2. Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
  3. Combine the igniter assembly with the beaker.
  4. Secure the beaker assembly with the screwdriver.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wrench on the beaker assembly to detach all the components.

Chemical grenade

ChemGrenadeCompleteV2.png

The starter kit generally can't be acquired without a traitor scientist's PDA. See Murder for more information.

Note: You can't retrieve the beakers after securing the grenade, so make sure your chemical mix works beforehand!

You will need:

To make:

  1. Add the fuse to the grenade casing.
  2. Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
  3. Add the beaker(s) to the unsecured grenade.
  4. Secure it with the screwdriver.

Chemical grenade assembly

ChemicalGrenadeAssemblyTimerV2-32x32.png ChemicalGrenadeAssemblyProximitySensorV2-32x32.png ChemicalGrenadeAssemblySignalerV2-32x32.png

Combines the advantages of chem grenades (two beakers) with the versatility of beaker assemblies.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Combine the igniter assembly with the chem grenade.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the grenade assembly with the wrench in-hand to detach the grenade from the igniter assembly.
    • Optionally, click on the igniter assembly with the wrench in-hand to disassemble it.

Butt bomb

Harmless prank. Works like a grenade.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Add the timer to the butt.

Suicide bomb vest

SuicideBombVest.png

The payload will be triggered upon death of whoever is wearing the vest, heating the mixture inside the beaker by 30 K (see ignition temperatures) when so equipped.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
  2. Combine the igniter with the health analyzer.
  3. Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
  4. Combine the assembly with the vest.
  5. If you intend to use the beaker, prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
  6. Attach the payload to the vest.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the wrench on the vest to detach the payload.
  2. Use the wrench on the vest again to separate the igniter/health analyzer assembly and armor vest.
  3. Use the screwdriver on the igniter/health analyzer assembly to loosen the igniter.
  4. Use the wrench on the igniter/health analyzer assembly to separate the components.

Rigged light tube/power cell

A rather uncommon and creative way to booby-trap machinery or whole rooms. It is not a bad idea to turn the power off before installing either of them.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Inject the light tube or power cell with plasma.

Rigged turtle

Sylvester-32x32.png

It is possible to make a turtle (such as the one owned by the Head of Security) explode when the lights in the area are turned on. Somehow the turtle is not harmed in the process.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Inject the turtle with plasma.

Pipe bomb

PipebombV2-32x32.png

Not to be confused with the version traitors can order.

Building pipebombs from plasmastone and erebite by using custom metal sheets, multiplies explosive power. All chemicals can be used for pipebombs, not just welding fuel, though not all can produce an explosion ; see more below. A small variety of items can also be shoved into one or both of the pipe bomb's two pipes to add a special effect to the detonation. If you shove two or three of the same item inside a pipe bomb, the item's effect will be boosted.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
  2. Use the welder on the frame.
    • Optionally, stuff the extra item(s) in the hollow frame (note: you cannot do this once the frame is filled!).
  3. Fill the frame with welding fuel.
  4. Add some wires.
  5. Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
  6. If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
  7. Combine the igniter with the timer, the proximity sensor, or the signaller.
  8. Add the igniter assembly to the pipe frame.

Chemicals that can be used for pipebombs to produce an actual explosion, ordered by explosive power:

Some possible extra items to add:

  • Metal scrap
  • Glass shards
  • Butter
  • Cloth
  • Instruments
  • Butts
  • Glowsticks
  • Paper
  • Ectoplasm
  • Meat
  • Telecrystals
  • RCD cartridges
  • Cable coils
  • Power cells (only works in combination with aforementioned cable coils)
  • Medical patch boxes
  • Gold star boxes
  • Assorted sticker boxes

And the great thing is, if the extra item isn't coded to have a special effect, it simply won't be added to the bomb. That is, if the item you're adding does go in, you know something special will happen!

Mousetrap bomb

MousetrapPipeBomb.png MousetrapGrenade.png MousetrapSignaller.png

Compatible with pipe bombs (regular timer/igniter, Syndicate) and grenades. You can also set up a signaller which will send its signal when the trap is sprung. They can be used as makeshift mines or to booby-trap backpacks, lockers, crates, and other containers - in the case of the signaller, it can activate a remote bomb.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Attach the pipe bomb, grenade, or signaler to the mousetrap.
  2. Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the mousetrap with the wrench to remove to attachment. It's safe even if it's armed.

Mousetrap car

MousetrapRollerAssembly.png

A mousetrap bomb on wheels. Once set in motion, the cart will scoot off in whichever direction you're facing and detonate the grenade upon impact with a large object or unfortunate bystander.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
  2. Combine the mousetrap bomb with the pipe frame.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the car with the wrench to remove the mousetrap from the pipe frame.
  2. Click on the mousetrap with the wrench to remove to bomb. It's safe even if it's armed.

Single tank bomb

TimerIgniterPlasmaTankAssemblyV2-32x32.png ProximityIgniterPlasmaTankAssemblyV2-32x32.png RadioIgniterPlasmaTankAssemblyV2-32x32.png

Comes in, from left to right, timer/igniter/plasma tank assembly, proximity/igniter/plasma tank assembly, and radio/igniter/plasma tank assembly forms that are often simply collectively known as plasma tank assemblies or single tank bombs. Less powerful than transfer valve bombs, but they still fit in backpacks. You'll have to discover suitable gas mixtures yourself.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Fill the plasma tank with a gas mixture of your choice.
  2. Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
  3. Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller.
  4. Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
  5. Attach the assembly to the plasma tank.
  6. Weld a hole in the tank.

Transfer valve bomb

TransferValveBomb.png

Big bombs for a big bang. Again, this guide won't tell you how to create the perfect explosive mix, so feel free to sign up as a scientist and mess around with the equipment in the laboratory. You should also use the mainframe and VR goggles to run simulations instead of testing your bombs on the station. You can replace one of the tanks with a butt to build a mostly harmless gimmick bomb.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Connect the first tank to the transfer valve.
  2. Connect the second tank (or the butt) to the transfer valve.
  3. Attach the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller to the transfer valve.
    • Optionally, attach wires, allowing it to be worn on your back. Stylish!

You will need:

  • A hand. (i.e. no tools)

To break:

  1. Click on the transfer tank valve while it's in your hand to bring up its interface.
  2. Click on the Remove links to detach each component from the transfer valve.

Canister bomb

CanbombGreyCan.png

Massive bombs whose location and time to detonation are automatically announced to everyone on the server upon arming. As usual, the gas mixture is not revealed, only the assembly process.

BIG FUCKING WARNING NOTE: These bombs are no joke. The amount of hull they can take out of the station has the potential to warrant an Emergency Shuttle call, so if you're not an antagonist and seek to build a canister bomb for whatever reason, run it by the admins first with adminhelp, or detonate them somewhere away from it like the debris field, although you'll still want to inform people about it.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the screwdriver to unsecure the igniter.
  2. Add the multitool to the igniter.
  3. Add the plasma tank to the assembly.
  4. Secure the assembly with a screwdriver.
  5. Use the cable coil on the assembly.
  6. Add the timer to the assembly.
    • Optionally, add a remote signalling device to your assembly.
    • Optionally, add up to three attachment class items to your assembly.
  7. Use the assembly on the canister.

The detonator assembly may have up to 3 attachment class items. Each attachment adds an additional wire to the assembly, each having a unique effect. You may have more than one of any type of attachment.

  • An analyzer (Detonates the bomb if the gas is leaking from the canister.)
  • A power cell (Adds an additional detonation wire.)
  • A flash (Occasionally flashes nearby people.)
  • A sheet of paper and a pen (Adds a note to the canister bomb interface.)
  • A bike horn (Self-explanatory.)
  • A vuvuzela. (Ditto.)

Detonators may be disassembled if necessary. A screwdriver is required to unscrew and a crowbar is required to pry out the plasma tank, and everything else can be cut apart with the wirecutters. Attachments may be removed from the assembly with a screwdriver.

Miscellaneous

Disposal pipes

Like most things in Space Station 13, the plumbing system is surprisingly deep. A skilled space plumber can set you up for a wild ride that'll send you racing through most of the station and spit you out from a mailbox. Now you can be that skilled plumber.

The building blocks

There's a few pipe dispensers scattered around the station. The most easily accessible one can be found in disposals, and Engineering has a mobile version that makes pipe laying a breeze. Pipes come in 8 variations, 5 of which the dispensers will provide:

Straight - Straight tube.
Bent - Tube bent at a 90 degree angle.
Junction - A three-way junction. The arrow indicates where items exit. You can change the junction's direction by clicking it with empty hand before welding it to the floor.
Y-junction - A three-way junction with another exit point.
Trunk - Entry and exit point for pipes. Disposal and mail chutes come pre-connected to these, but players can't connect on their own.
Mail-junction - Not available from the dispenser. A three-way junction with a filter that only allows items to pass through. People and creatures will be diverted away into the side-pipe. Visually distinguished from regular junctions by a red dot on the pipe.
Controlled pipe segments - Specialized equipment available to mechanics.

Managing your pipes

Pipes come in four states:

Free - Can be moved by pulling them or rotated by using a crowbar on a pipe.
Wrenched - Wrenched to the floor. Immobile and inoperable.
Welded - Welded to the floor. Immobile and can't be rotated. Fully operable.
Broken - Welded to the floor. Inoperable. Must be welded at all ends to remove.

You need three tools. A crowbar to remove the tiles covering the floor. This exposes existing pipes and lets you place new pipes. A welding tool to make pipes operable or to loosen welded pipes. A wrench to optionally lock an unwelded pipe in place.

Controlling the flow

Take these tips to heart and you'll be a plumbing like a champion in no time.

  • T-ray scanners show you pipes hidden under floor tiles.
  • Wrenching the pipe is entirely optional but it still can be useful if you ran out of welder fuel and want to keep the pipe in one place.
  • Items will follow the pipeline from chute to exit point as long as every piece is connected, nothing is broken and there's no blockage.
  • Items entering a junction from the wrong end (the side with the exit arrow), will randomly go out one of the two other sides.
  • People can get stuck in pipes, intentionally or accidentally. They can be freed by removing the pipe section they are trapped in. They can also try to free themselves by flipping (Hotkey: R or mashing random movement buttons.
  • Pipelines ending in a regular pipe will shoot things out in a straight line. Trunks eject items in random directions.
  • Combine with programmable electronics components to make some truly wild rides.

Crates

CrateV3-32x32.png SecureCrateGreenV3-32x32.png

Crates can be constructed at a crate fabricator, if your map has one.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Make sure the crate is open.
  2. Click on the open crate with a wrench to take it apart.

You will get a sheet of material. Most crates give metal sheets, but pizza boxes and packing crates from certain Cargo crates give cardboard sheets, which can be used for cardboard boxes.

Pews

Because sometimes those pews in the Chapel just get in the way of renovations.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Click on the pew with a wrench to turn it into pew parts.
  2. Click on the pew parts with a wrench to turn it into sheets.

Table

Table.png

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while you're holding it.
  2. Choose Table Parts.
  3. Pick up and click on the parts to build a table.

You will need:

To break:

  1. (Reinforced table: weaken the table's reinforcements with the welder.)
  2. Wrench apart the table's bolts.
  3. Disassemble the table parts with the wrench to get metal sheets back.

Glass Table

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while holding the glass in your active hand (or vice versa).
  2. Pick up and click on the parts to build a glass table.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Loosen the table's bolts with the wrench.
  2. Disassemble the table parts with the wrench to get glass sheets back.

Display Case

A glass housing for showcasing a single item. It is impossible to remove the item inside without breaking the glass first. You can click on the case with screwdriver to toggle whether it is possible to move it around. The Captain's Quarters starts with one for a replica antique laser gun.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the metal while holding the glass in your active hand (or vice versa) and choose "Display Case".

You will need:

To fix:

  1. Click on the broken display case with the glass sheet to repair the glass.

You will need:

  • A weapon. Can be melee (including fists) and ranged.
  • WrenchV2-32x32.png A wrench

To break:

  1. Use the weapon to break the glass. Shoot it, blow it up, smash it up, whatever. As you might imagine, it's quite fragile; it only has 30 health.
  2. Click on the remains of the case with the wrench to clear thme away

Heads on a spike

Heads can be removed by clicking on the spike with an empty hand.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Impale the head(s) on the rod.
    • Optionally, secure the spike by welding it to the ground.

Skull chalice

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the rod on the skull.

Jack-o'-lantern

Click the jack-o'-lantern to light it.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Use the chainsaw or knife on the pumpkin to carve it.
  2. Use the flashlight on the carved pumpkin.

Bandages

Bandage.png

You get three bandages for every piece of fabric.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Cut the base material apart with the wirecutters or scissors.

Instruments

Main article: Instruments

Gifts

Present.png

Wrapping presents consumes units of wrapping paper. All rolls come with 20 units, wrapping tiny- to small-size items takes 4 units, and wrapping normal-size items takes 8 units.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Put the wrapping paper on a table
  2. Click on the wrapping paper with the item you want to wrap up. Make sure the scissors/wirecutters is in your other hand.

Radio/horn assembly

RadioHornAssemblyV2-32x32.png

A radio attached to a bike horn for noise pollution, honk. Sounds the horn when a radio signal is receieved.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Attach the signaller to the bike horn.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wrench on the assembly to detach the components.

Mousetrap pie launcher

For the seasoned prankster. Go on...open it!

You will need:

  • Mousetrap.png A mousetrap
  • A left or right arm (any type)
  • A pie (any type)

To make:

  1. Attach the arm to the mousetrap.
  2. Add the pie.
  3. Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.

You will need:

To break:

  1. Use the wrench on the launcher to remove the pie.
  2. Use the wrench on the pieless pie launcher to separate the arm and mousetrap.

Large potato battery

PotatoPowerCell.png

A (mostly) natural power cell that can go inside cyborgs, APCs, and other things normal cells can be inserted into.

Potency of the potato used determines how large the resulting cell's capacity is, while endurance determines if the cell self-charges and at what rate. All tend to be on the low-end.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the potato with the wire to assemble the cell.

Small potato battery

EgunPotatoCell.png

Make your lasers, phasers, and other energy weapons run on carbs, like you.

Potency of the potato used determines the resulting cell's capacity. It generally is in the tens, but quality potatoes can reach the triple digits range. Endurance determines the cell's self-charge rate; this is usually in the tenths range.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the potato with the knife to peel it.
  2. Click on the potato with the wire to assemble the cell.

Lipstick

Lipstick.png

A tube of lipstick, for making your lips look all pretty.

The colo(u)r of the lipstick is randomly chosen from a list. The colo(u)r of the crayon and capsule have no effect on what colo(u)r the lipstick created is.

You will need:

To make:

  1. Click on the oven with the crayon to put it in the oven.
  2. Click on the oven with the capsule to put that in the oven as well.
  3. Click on the oven to bring up its interface. The amount of time in the oven has no bearing on the quality of the lipstick, though it is possible to cook it for too long and get burnt ashes. Just setting it 1 second, LOW, is fine.

Supplementary Video

Department Guides
Engineering Making and Breaking · Construction · Gas · Power Grid · Thermoelectric Generator · Singularity Generator · Geothermal Generator · Catalytic Generator · Nuclear Generator · Mining · Materials and Crafting · Wiring · Hacking · MechComp · Mechanic components and you · Control Unit · Ruckingenur Kit · Reactor Statistics Computer · Cargo Crates
Medsci Doctoring · Genetics · Robotics · Telescience · Plasma Research · Artifact Research · Chemistry · Chemicals · ChemiCompiler · Decomposition
Security Security Officer · Contraband · Forensics · Space Law
Service Foods and Drinks · Botany · Writing · Piano Song Dump · Instruments
The AI Artificial Intelligence · AI Laws · Chain of Command · Guide to AI · Humans and Nonhumans · Killing the AI
Computers Computers · TermOS · ThinkDOS · Packets
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