Difference between revisions of "Construction"
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(Added wrench window deconstruction and fixed unanchoring of not-reinforced windows.) |
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</tab> | </tab> | ||
<tab name="Breaking"> | <tab name="Breaking"> | ||
You will need: | |||
* [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | |||
* [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | |||
* [[Image:wrench.png]] A [[wrench]] | |||
To break: | To break: | ||
# | # Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | ||
# If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window | |||
'''OR''' | '''OR''' | ||
# Use heavy objects to break | # Use heavy objects to break | ||
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</tab> | </tab> | ||
<tab name="Breaking"> | <tab name="Breaking"> | ||
You will need: | |||
* [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | |||
* [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | |||
* [[Image:wrench.png]] A [[wrench]] | |||
To break: | |||
# Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | |||
# If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window | |||
'''OR''' | '''OR''' | ||
# Use heavy objects to break | # Use heavy objects to break | ||
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* [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | * [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | ||
* [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | * [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | ||
* [[Image:wrench.png]] A [[wrench]] | |||
To break: | To break: | ||
# Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | # Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | ||
# If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window | |||
'''OR''' | '''OR''' | ||
# Use heavy objects to break | # Use heavy objects to break | ||
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* [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | * [[Image:screwdriver3.png]] A [[screwdriver]] | ||
* [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | * [[Image:crowbar.png]] A [[crowbar]] | ||
* [[Image:wrench.png]] A [[wrench]] | |||
To break: | To break: | ||
# Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | # Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out | ||
# If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window | |||
'''OR''' | '''OR''' | ||
# Use heavy objects to break | # Use heavy objects to break | ||
</tab> | </tab> | ||
</tabs> | </tabs> | ||
===Grilles=== | ===Grilles=== | ||
<tabs> | <tabs> |
Revision as of 14:57, 4 February 2020
- For the job, see Construction Worker. For the discontinued game mode, see Construction Game Mode.
All this assumes you've figured out the game pretty well so far. You have, right?
Weapons
Stun gloves
Insulated gloves armed with a powerful shock to briefly stun whomever they touch. Your must be set to Harm intent in order for this to work. Craftable stun gloves only hold one charge at a time.
You will need:
- A pair of insulated gloves OR power gloves
- A charged power cell
- A cable coil
To make:
- Add some wiring to the gloves.
- Use the power cell on the gloves to charge them.
Flamethrower
Welding fuel is a solid choice. You can also fill the tank with other reagents, so there is plenty of room for experimentation. See Chemistry for more information.
You will need:
To make:
- Use the screwdriver on the welder.
- Attach the rod to the welder.
- Combine the igniter with the welder/rod assembly.
- Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
- Attach the air mix or oxygen tank to the assembly.
- Add the fuel tank to the assembly.
Antique laser gun
See Guns for more information.
You will need:
- An antique laser gun
- A charged power cell (small)
- A small coil
- A lens
- A cable coil
- A screwdriver
- A multitool
- File:Solderingiron.png A soldering iron
To make:
- Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
- Add wiring.
- Install the small coil.
- Solder the coil into place.
- Install the lens.
- Use the multitool.
- Install the power cell.
- Close the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
Zip gun
You can use different types of ammunition, of which .38 Special is easiest to obtain from a hacked general manufacturer. The zip gun holds two rounds at a time.
You will need:
- 3 metal sheets
- A welder
- A staple gun
To make:
- Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
- Use the welder on the frame.
- Combine the staple gun with the frame.
Flash/cell assembly
In addition to draining somewhat more stamina than a regular flash, this overcharged version also sets them on fire. The more charge in the battery, the more stamina drained, and the longer they'll be on fire. Unlike a regular flash, it will only work once, as the bulb will instantly burn itself out. Meanwhile, a huge portion of the battery charge will be drained, allowing some reuse.
You will need:
- A flash
- A charged power cell
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Open the flash's battery compartment with the screwdriver.
- Attach the power cell to the flash.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
To break:
- Use the screwdriver to unscrew the access panel.
- Use the wrench to disassemble the assembly.
Poisoned surgery tools
Certain surgery tools can be dipped in up to 5 units of poison or some other reagent for fun and wacky effects upon stabbing. Tools must be recoated with each use.
You will need:
- A scalpel OR saw OR enucleation spoon
- A filled container (beaker, glass etc.)
To make:
- Dip the scalpel, saw or spoon in the beaker.
Poisoned arrows
Likewise, arrows from the nano-fab can coated with up to 3 units of poison or other reagents, applying their effects upon hit.
Broken bottle
A passable melee weapon that makes a decent, better-than-average throwing weapon.
You will need:
- A bottle, obviously.
- A table to break the bottle upon.
To make:
- Make sure you're on Harm intent.
- Use the bottle on the table.
It might take a few attempts/bottles. By default, there's a 25% chance you'll successfully break the bottle; if you're drunk and/or if you're the Barman, you're more likely to succeed. If you fail, reality will ensue, and the bottle will smash into a slightly less useful glass shard. If you're especially unlucky, the broken glass may cut your hand and make you bleed.
Bombs
Detonator assemblies
Timers and other basic tools may be put together as assemblies, most of which can function as detonators for certain bombs. Not included is the health analyzer/igniter combination, a suicide bomb vest-specific trigger.
Igniter assembly
The bread-and-butter choice for most situations.
You will need:
- An igniter
- A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Use the screwdriver on the igniter.
- If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
- Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or signaller.
- Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
Signaller assembly
A standalone, proximity- or timer-activated radio. Doesn't work as an attachment, but can come in handy to remotely trigger bombs or door bolts. The bike horn assembly is only useful for noise pollution, though.
You will need:
- A remote signaller
- A proximity sensor OR timer OR bike horn
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Use the screwdriver on the signaller (not required for horn assembly).
- Attach the signaller to the proximity sensor, timer or bike horn.
- Secure the assembly with the screwdriver (not required for horn assembly).
Beaker assembly
These assemblies are quite popular to release chemical smoke from a safe distance - for the user at least. Deadly in the hands of a skilled chemist. When triggered, the igniter will heat the mixture by 30 K (see ignition temperatures).
You will need:
- A beaker
- An igniter assembly
- A screwdriver
To make:
- If the assembly has been secured beforehand, undo that with the screwdriver.
- Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
- Combine the igniter assembly with the beaker.
- Secure the beaker assembly with the screwdriver.
You will need:
- A wrench
To break:
- Use the wrench on the beaker assembly to detach all the components.
Chemical grenade
The starter kit generally can't be acquired without a traitor scientist's PDA. See Murder for more information.
Note: You can't retrieve the beakers after securing the grenade, so make sure your chemical mix works beforehand!
You will need:
- A grenade starter kit
- Up to 2 beakers
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Add the fuse to the grenade casing.
- Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
- Add the beaker(s) to the unsecured grenade.
- Secure it with the screwdriver.
Chemical grenade assembly
Combines the advantages of chem grenades (two beakers) with the versatility of beaker assemblies.
You will need:
- A chemical grenade (Anything that looks like this: )
- An igniter assembly
To make:
- Combine the igniter assembly with the chem grenade.
You will need:
- A wrench
To break:
- Click on the grenade assembly with the wrench in-hand to detach the grenade from the igniter assembly.
- Optionally, click on the igniter assembly with the wrench in-hand to disassemble it.
Butt bomb
Harmless prank. Works like a grenade.
Suicide bomb vest
The payload will be triggered upon death of whoever is wearing the vest, heating the mixture inside the beaker by 30 K (see ignition temperatures) when so equipped.
You will need:
- A regular ballistic vest
- A health analyzer
- An igniter
- A grenade OR a pipe bomb OR a beaker
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
- Combine the igniter with the health analyzer.
- Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
- Combine the assembly with the vest.
- If you intend to use the beaker, prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
- Attach the payload to the vest.
You will need:
- A wrench
- A screwdriver
To make:
- Use the wrench on the vest to detach the payload.
- Use the wrench on the vest again to separate the igniter/health analyzer assembly and armor vest.
- Use the screwdriver on the igniter/health analyzer assembly to loosen the igniter.
- Use the wrench on the igniter/health analyzer assembly to separate the components.
Rigged light tube/power cell
A rather uncommon and creative way to booby-trap machinery or whole rooms. It is not a bad idea to turn the power off before installing either of them.
You will need:
- A light tube OR a power cell
- A syringe of plasma from a chemical dispenser
To make:
- Inject the light tube or power cell with plasma.
Pipe bomb
Not to be confused with the version traitors can order.
Other materials can be used in place of welding fuel if available. Ordered by explosive power: phlogiston dust, phlogiston, CLF3, or black powder. Plasmastone and erebite work differently in that they are crafted from custom metal sheets, then combined with one of the listed reagents. A small variety of items can also be shoved into one or both of the pipe bomb's two pipes to add a special effect to the detonation. If you shove two or three of the same item inside a pipe bomb, the item's effect will be boosted.
You will need:
- 3 metal sheets
- A cable coil
- An igniter
- A timer OR a proximity sensor OR a remote signaller
- A container (beaker, glass etc.) of welding fuel (20 units)
- A welder
- A screwdriver
- (Optional: one or two additional items.)
To make:
- Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
- Use the welder on the frame.
- Optionally, stuff the extra item(s) in the hollow frame (note: you cannot do this once the frame is filled!).
- Fill the frame with welding fuel.
- Add some wires.
- Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
- If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
- Combine the igniter with the timer, the proximity sensor, or the signaller.
- Add the igniter assembly to the pipe frame.
Some possible extra items to add:
- Metal scrap
- Glass shards
- Butter
- Cloth
- Instruments
- Butts
- Glowsticks
- Paper
- Ectoplasm
- Meat
- Telecrystals
- RCD cartridges
- Cable coils
- Power cells (only works in combination with aforementioned cable coils)
- Medical patch boxes
- Gold star boxes
- Assorted sticker boxes
And the great thing is, if the extra item isn't coded to have a special effect, it simply won't be added to the bomb. That is, if the item you're adding does go in, you know something special will happen!
Mousetrap bomb
Compatible with pipe bombs (regular, Syndicate) and grenades. They can be used as makeshift mines or to booby-trap backpacks and other containers.
Mousetrap car
A mousetrap bomb on wheels. Once set in motion, the cart will scoot off in whichever direction you're facing and detonate the grenade upon impact with a large object or unfortunate bystander.
You will need:
- 3 metal sheets
- A mousetrap bomb (grenade or pipe bomb only)
- (Optional: a wrench)
To make:
- Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
- Combine the mousetrap bomb with the pipe frame.
You will need:
- A wrench.
To break:
- Click on the car with the wrench to remove the mousetrap from the pipe frame.
- Click on the mousetrap with the wrench to remove to bomb. It's safe even if it's armed.
Single tank bomb
Also known as plasma tank assemblies. Less powerful than transfer valve bombs, but they still fit in backpacks. You'll have to discover suitable gas mixtures yourself.
You will need:
- A plasma tank
- An igniter
- A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
- A screwdriver
- A welder
To make:
- Fill the plasma tank with a gas mixture of your choice.
- Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
- Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller.
- Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
- Attach the assembly to the plasma tank.
- Weld a hole in the tank.
Transfer valve bomb
Big bombs for a big bang. Again, this guide won't tell you how to create the perfect explosive mix, so feel free to sign up as a scientist and mess around with the equipment in the laboratory. You should also use the mainframe and VR goggles to run simulations instead of testing your bombs on the station. You can replace one of the tanks with a butt to build a mostly harmless gimmick bomb.
You will need:
- A tank of heated gas (plasma)
- A tank of reactive gas (oxygen) OR a butt
- A tank transfer valve
- A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
- (Optional: some wire)
To make:
- Connect the first tank to the transfer valve.
- Connect the second tank (or the butt) to the transfer valve.
- Attach the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller to the transfer valve.
- Optionally, attach wires, allowing it to be worn on your back. Stylish!
You will need:
- A hand. (i.e. no tools)
To break:
- Click on the transfer tank valve while it's in your hand to bring up its interface.
- Click on the Remove links to detach each component from the transfer valve.
Canister bomb
Massive bombs whose location and time to detonation are automatically announced to everyone on the server upon arming. As usual, the gas mixture is not revealed, only the assembly process.
BIG FUCKING WARNING NOTE: These bombs are no joke. The amount of hull they can take out of the station has the potential to warrant an Emergency Shuttle call, so if you're not an antagonist and seek to build a canister bomb for whatever reason, run it by the admins first with adminhelp, or detonate them somewhere away from it like the debris field, although you'll still want to inform people about it.
You will need:
- A canister full of an explosive gas mixture.
- A plasma tank filled to at least 700 kPa of pure plasma.
- A timer
- An igniter
- A cable coil
- A screwdriver
- A multitool
- (Optional: a remote signaller)
- (Optional: a crowbar)
- (Optional: a pair of wirecutters)
- (Optional: suitable attachment class items; see list below)
To make:
- Use the screwdriver to unsecure the igniter.
- Add the multitool to the igniter.
- Add the plasma tank to the assembly.
- Secure the assembly with a screwdriver.
- Use the cable coil on the assembly.
- Add the timer to the assembly.
- Optionally, add a remote signalling device to your assembly.
- Optionally, add up to three attachment class items to your assembly.
- Use the assembly on the canister.
The detonator assembly may have up to 3 attachment class items. Each attachment adds an additional wire to the assembly, each having a unique effect. You may have more than one of any type of attachment.
- An analyzer (Detonates the bomb if the gas is leaking from the canister.)
- A power cell (Adds an additional detonation wire.)
- A flash (Occasionally flashes nearby people.)
- A sheet of paper and a pen (Adds a note to the canister bomb interface.)
- A bike horn (Self-explanatory.)
- A vuvuzela. (Ditto.)
Detonators may be disassembled if necessary. A screwdriver is required to unscrew and a crowbar is required to pry out the plasma tank, and everything else can be cut apart with the wirecutters. Attachments may be removed from the assembly with a screwdriver.
Machinery
Space Pod
Be advised that you have to stand adjacent to the south west corner of the pod in order to construct it, since it is a 64x64 sprite. Use a bottle of champagne on the finished pod to give it a unique name.
You will need:
- A pod frame kit
- A box of pod circuitry
- A pod control interface
- An engine manifold
- A set of pod armour
- (Optional: a paint job kit)
- A cable coil
- 5 metal sheets
- 5 reinforced glass sheets
- A wrench
- A welder
To make:
- Deploy the frame kit by clicking on the box.
- Wrench the jumble of metal. It should look less like a pile of junk.
- Wrench again. It should look like a functional but unsecured frame of a space pod.
- Use the welder.
- Insert wires.
- Place the circuitry inside the frame.
- Add metal to the frame.
- Install the engine manifold.
- Put armor on the pod frame.
- Use the welder.
- Install the control interface.
- Add the reinforced glass sheets.
- Optionally, use the paint job kit on the finished pod.
MiniPutt
Some of the key components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same. And as with space pods, you can rename the finished craft with a champagne bottle.
You will need:
- A MiniPutt frame kit
- A box of MiniPutt circuitry
- A MiniPutt control interface
- A MiniPutt engine manifold
- A set of pod armour
- (Optional: a paint job kit)
- A cable coil
- 3 metal sheets
- 3 reinforced glass sheets
- A wrench
- A welder
To make:
- Follow the Space Pod guide.
Computers
Console
Intended for computers built from a single circuit board. Console frames don't accept mainboards and peripheral cards. If there're other machines associated with the console, e.g. cloning pod and scanner or portal ring and generator, build/deploy those first. If you build the computer first, then the accessory machines, you'll have to disconnect and reconnect the monitor with a screwdriver to get the console to recognize them.
You will need:
- 5 metal sheets
- 2 glass sheets
- A cable coil
- A wrench
- A screwdriver
- One circuit board
To make:
- Click on the metal and choose Console frame.
- Wrench the frame into place.
- Insert the circuit board.
- Use the screwdriver.
- Add wires.
- Use the glass on the frame.
- Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- Wirecutters
- A wrench
- A welder
To break:
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar
- Wirecutters
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar (removes circuit board)
- Wrench
- Welder
Terminal
Useful for computers built from components and peripherals. Wired computers (as in part of a network) will need to be positioned over a data terminal (deployable with the help of a mechanic), which in turn has to be connected to the power grid.
You will need:
- 3 metal sheets
- 1 glass sheets
- 5 lengths of cable
- A wrench
- A screwdriver
- A computer mainboard
- Up to 2 peripheral cards (An ID scanner module is pretty much mandatory.)
- A storage drive
To make:
- Click on the metal and choose choose Computer terminal frame.
- Wrench the frame into place.
- Insert the computer mainboard.
- Use the screwdriver.
- Insert the peripheral cards (up to 2).
- Add wires.
- Insert the storage drive.
- Use the glass on the frame.
- Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- Wirecutters
- A wrench
- A welder
To break:
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar
- Crowbar (removes hard drive)
- Wirecutters
- Crowbar (removes all modules)
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar (removes motherboard)
- Wrench
- Welder
Heavy
Some of the components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same.
You will need:
- 5 metal sheets
- 2 glass sheets
- 5 lengths of cable
- A wrench
- A screwdriver
- A computer mainboard
- Up to 3 peripheral cards (An ID scanner module is pretty much mandatory.)
- A storage drive
To make:
- Click on the metal and choose choose Computer frame.
- Wrench the frame into place.
- Insert the computer mainboard.
- Use the screwdriver.
- Insert the peripheral cards (up to 3).
- Add wires.
- Insert the storage drive.
- Use the glass on the frame.
- Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- Wirecutters
- A wrench
- A welder
To break:
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar
- Crowbar (removes hard drive)
- Wirecutters
- Crowbar (removes all modules)
- Screwdriver
- Crowbar (removes motherboard)
- Wrench
- Welder
Electric Chair
To change the default frequency/code, you must click on the electropack while you're holding it, and modify it from the pop-up interface. Electric chairs can be remotely activated, but must be toggled on before usage (right click, and select controls). Also, the room must have power for the chair to work. Said power can come from two sources: the local APC (capped at ~80 BURN) or a direct, wired connection to the power grid (scales with the engine's output, and can even vaporize somebody).
You will need:
- An electropack
- A security helmet
- One sheet of metal
- (Optional: a cable coil)
- (Optional: a remote signaler)
To make:
- Optionally, lay wires using the cable coil to create a direct connection to the power grid.
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Build a chair. Optionally, place it on the same tile as the prepared wiring.
- Optionally, change the electropack's default frequency and code.
- Use the helmet on the electropack.
- Attach the helmet/electropack assembly to the chair.
You will need:
- A wrench
To break:
- Click on the electric chair with a wrench in your active detach the shock pack from the chair.
- Click on the shock pack to get an electropack and helmet back.
Light fixtures
These fixtures, installed by Nanotrasen or otherwise, are controlled by the local APC. Light tubes and bulbs may be obtained from boxes (ask the janitor) or a general manufacturer.
You will need:
- A wall
- Two metal sheets
- A light tube or bulb
To make:
- Turn the metal sheets into one set of light fixture parts.
- Attach the parts to a wall.
- Insert the light tube or bulb, depending on the type of fixture.
You will need:
To break:
- Turn off the lights in the room OR smash the light tube or bulb.
- Remove the light tube or bulb.
- Use the screwdriver on the light fixture to disassemble it.
Station Bots
Cyborgs
- Main article: Roboticist#Construction
AI shells
- Main article: Roboticist#AI shells
Other robots
- Main article: Robots
APCs
Deploying an APC this way automatically creates a data terminal under it, so to power the APC, you simply have to lay wire under the terminal and to a power source or cable that already has power.
You will need:
- A device analyzer
- File:Solderingiron.png A soldering iron
- Access to Mechanics
- (Optional: a hand labeler)
To make:
- Use the device analyzer on an APC.
- Click the ruckingenur kit in Mechanics with the analyzer you used.
- Use the ruckingenur kit to create an APC blueprint.
- Put each blueprint into the reverse-engineering fabricator (or any fabricator)
- Use the fabricator to fabricate a deploy box frame for the APC.
- Put the box frame in the area of interest.
- Use the soldering iron to create an APC.
- Optionally, click on the hand labeler to set a name for the APC.
- Optionally, use the hand labeler to name the APC.
This is for APCs that have been completely broken (they have a damaged sprite and the area is left unpowered), not APCs that have had their wires shorted.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
- A multitool
- A cable coil
To fix:
- Use the screwdriver on the APC.
- Add the wire. Wait.
- Wrench the APC. Wait.
- Apply the mulitool.
- Finally, use the screwdriver on it again.
Microwaves
Microwaves can be scanned using the Mechanics. The trick is to scan it while it's in operation, so you don't accidentally microwave your analyzer.
If the microwave is just dirty ( ), use a spray bottle of space cleaner. A completely broken unit has to be fixed with some tools.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
To fix:
- Use the screwdriver on the microwave.
- Finish the job with a wrench.
You will need:
- Any item that's not a food item.
To break:
- Insert item of choice into microwave.
- Turn the microwave on.
Manufacturers
While they can't quite be constructed, all manufacturers can be replicated with the equipment in the Mechanics Workshop. See the relevant Mechanic section for more.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A welder OR cable coil
To fix:
- Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
- Depending on the severity of the damage, use the welder (light) or cable coil (heavy).
- Use the screwdriver again to close the panel.
Keep in mind that completely dismantled fabricators can't be replaced without the help of electronics!
You will need:
- A wrench
- A crowbar
- Wirecutters
To break:
- Open the outer cover with the wrench.
- Use the crowbar to pry off the cover.
- Remove the wiring with the wirecutters.
- Undo the final bolts with the wrench.
Cloning Lab
So you want to create a new cloning lab for completely legitimate purposes? You will need to use a combination of mechanic skills and tools in addition to raw materials.
We are going to be using some information from other places to do this, namely console construction as well as the device analyzer and its related processes
You will need:
- 5 metal sheets
- 2 glass sheets
- A cable coil
- A wrench
- A screwdriver
- One circuit board (Cloning specifically, usually only one spare available in tech storage)
- A device analyzer
- File:Solderingiron.png A soldering iron
- Access to mechanics, cloning and tech storage
To begin:
- Use the device analyzer on the cloning pod, the enzymatic reclaimer and the cloning scanner pod
- Once all three are scanned, click the ruckingenur kit in mechanics with the scanner used
- Use the ruckingenur kit to create a blueprint for each of the three
- Put each blueprint into the reverse-engineering fabricator
- From the reverse-engineering fabricator make a deployable box frame for each of the three scanned objects.
- Find a suitable location and plan your deployment of machinery, noting that each piece of peripheral machinery must be directly adjacent to the cloning console you will be creating (diagonal adjacency qualifies as well). Think carefully about how people will be moving around your new cloning lab, and which devices they may need to enter, exit, and move around.
- Place the individual box frames on the ground in their final positions and use the soldering iron on them.
To create the final piece, the cloning console:
- Click on the metal sheet in your hand and choose 'Console frame'.
- Wrench the frame into place.
- Insert the cloning circuit board.
- Use the screwdriver.
- Add wires, this will require a couple of clicks.
- Use the glass on the frame, this will require a couple of clicks.
- Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.
In the event that you constructed the console first, simply use a screwdriver on it to remove the glass, then apply new glass and use the screwdriver again to have it reboot to detect the peripheral devices.
If this is constructed in an existing area of station that is governed by a nearby APC, then the devices you have constructed will be reliant on that status of that APC. Direct wiring to the console or devices is not necessary.
Junction Boxes
Malfunctioning junction boxes are easily identifable, as they periodically emit sparks. Thanks to the kindness of imcoders, Examining the junction box hints at what you need to do next when repairing a junction box.
It's highly recommended to wear insulated gloves to protect from electric shock.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wirecutters
- A cable coil
To fix:
- Click on the junction box to open it.
- Click on it with the screwdriver to unscrew the casing bolts.
- Cut away the damaged cables with the wirecutters.
- Use the cable coil on the box to replace the wires.
- Snip off the excess wire with the wirecutters.
- Use the screwdriver on the box to screw the bolts back on.
Clothing
Armored exosuit
You will need:
- A biosuit OR a paramedic suit OR a firesuit
- Body armor
To make:
- Hold the body armor in your hand and attach it to the exosuit.
Skull mask
Custom masks are named after the former owner of the skull.
Paper mask
Standard pens contain black ink, but you can also use a marker or a crayon.
You will need:
- A sheet of paper
- A cable coil
- A pair of scissors or wirecutters
- (Optional: a pen)
To make:
- Cut the paper with the scissors or wirecutters.
- Use the cable coil on the unfinished mask.
- Optionally, colour the mask with the pen.
Bucket helmet
Cardboard box disguise
You will need:
- A cardboard box
- A pair of scissors or wirecutters
- (Optional: a fake moustache)
To make:
- Cut eye holes with the scissors or wirecutters.
- Optionally, attach the moustache to the cardboard box.
Ghost disguise
You will need:
- A bedsheet
- A pair of scissors or wirecutters
To make:
- Cut eye holes with the scissors or wirecutters.
Cape
You will need:
- A bedsheet
- A cable coil
- (Optional: a pair of scissors or wirecutters)
To make:
- Use the cable coil on the bedsheet.
You will need:
- Wirecutters or scissors.
To break:
- Use the wirecutters/scissors to cut the cable coil holding the cape together.
Rocket Shoes
How many uses you get out of these depend on the type of tank: 2 (emergency O2), 4 (large air or O2) or 6 (jetpack). Do not expect much in the way of steering either way. Rocket shoes are technically disposable, but you can build another pair by taping a replacement gas tank to it.
You will need:
- A jetpack OR air/O2 tank OR emergency oxygen tank
- A pair of shoes (any type)
To make:
- Use the gas tank on the shoes.
Shackles
Forces the wearer to move at walking speed.
You will need:
- A pair of orange shoes
- A pair of handcuffs
To make:
- Use the handcuffs on the orange shoes.
You will need:
- Nothing. Besides a hand slot.
To break:
- Click on the shackles in-hand to deattach the cuffs.
Walls, Doors, and Floors
Airlocks
While they can't quite be constructed, airlocks can be replicated with the equipment in the Mechanics Workshop. Replicas will usually retain access restrictions of the original airlock. See the relevant Mechanic section for more.
Airlocks that aren't in the Adventure Zone or the CentComm level can be busted down with a good source of blunt damage and some patience. Lots of patience. As in, enough patience to break down something with 1600 health.
They can also be hacked to the point of being non-functional.
Walls
While you usually make walls with steel and mauxite, they can be substituted with any kind of metal or crystal, so long as you get it into sheet form. Glass walls are especially useful, since they provide a view but can't be easily destroyed and are often stronger than windows.
Regular Walls
This only works with metal sheets.
You will need:
- Four sheets of metal
To make:
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Choose Wall Girders.
- Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.
You will need:
To make:
- Click on any tile while you're holding the sheets to build a girder.
- Add plating by clicking on the girder with the sheets.
Reinforced Walls
This only works with metal sheets.
You will need:
To make:
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Choose Wall Girders.
- Reinforce the metal sheets by clicking on the metal sheets with the rods in your hand.
- Reinforce two sheets.
- Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
- Use the remaining reinforced metal sheets to add the plating.
You will need:
To make:
- Click on any tile while you're holding the sheets to build a girder.
- Reinforce the sheets by clicking on the sheets with the rods in your hand. Reinforce two sheets.
- Pick up and stack the reinforced sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
- Use the remaining reinforced sheets to add the plating.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
- A welder
- A crowbar
- Wirecutters
To break:
- Wirecutters
- Screwdriver
- Welder
- Crowbar
- Wrench
- Welder
- Crowbar
- Screwdriver
- Wirecutters
- Wrench
Windows
Glass isn't the only thing you can build windows from. Whatever you can do with glass sheets, you can do with sheets of other crystalline materials.
Regular window (one direction)
Windows will be built in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.
You will need:
- One sheet of glass
- (Optional: a screwdriver)
To make:
- Click on the glass while you're holding it.
- Choose Thin Window.
- Optionally, unsecure the window by using the screwdriver, then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- A wrench
To break:
- Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
- If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window
OR
- Use heavy objects to break
Regular window (full)
You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.
You will need:
- Two sheets of glass
- (Optional: a screwdriver)
To make:
- Click on the glass while you're holding it.
- Choose Large Window.
- Optionally, secure the window by using the screwdriver.
Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- A wrench
To break:
- Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
- If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window
OR
- Use heavy objects to break
Reinforced window (one direction)
Windows will be built in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.
You will need:
- One sheet of glass
- One rod
- (Optional: a crowbar and a screwdriver)
To make:
- Combine the rod with the glass sheet.
- Click on the glass while you're holding it.
- Choose Thin Window.
- Optionally, unsecure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver, then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- A wrench
To break:
- Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
- If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window
OR
- Use heavy objects to break
Reinforced window (full)
You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.
You will need:
- Two sheets of glass
- Two rods
- (Optional: a crowbar and a screwdriver)
To make:
- Combine the rods with the glass sheets.
- Pick up and stack the reinforced glass sheets.
- Click on the glass while you're holding it.
- Choose Large Window.
- Optionally, secure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.
Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A crowbar
- A wrench
To break:
- Screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver to loosen, then push out
- If you want to deconstruct it fully use a wrench on the unanchored window
OR
- Use heavy objects to break
Grilles
You will need:
- Wirecutters OR a screwdriver
To break:
- Wirecutters to destroy
OR
- Screwdriver to unsecure, then push out
Note: Some grilles are electrified, as such it would be wise to have Insulated Gloves on before attempting to destroy or dislodge it. Alternatively, hit it repeatedly with a shard of glass to avoid a shock.
Floors
Regular Floors
Reinforced Floors
These are fire- and explosion-resistant and can accommodate Space Pods.
Barricades
Hidden Doors
A hidden door looks just like your standard wall--until you click on it (sometimes it takes a few clicks) to slide it out like a door!
Just like in Doom and similar games, hidden doors don't need extra clearance. It's okay if the wall will slide into another wall.
Hidden Door - Regular Wall
You will need:
To make:
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Choose Wall Girders.
- Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
- Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
To break:
- Use the screwdriver to dismantle the false wall.
- Disassemble the displaced girder with the wrench.
Hidden Door - Reinforced Wall
You will need:
To make:
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Choose Wall Girders.
- Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods three times.
- Use one reinforced metal sheet to reinforce the girder.
- Use the crowbar on the reinforced girder to dislodge it.
- Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to add the plating.
You will need:
- A screwdriver
- A wrench
To break:
- Use the screwdriver to dismantle the false wall.
- Disassemble the displaced girder with the wrench.
Catwalks
There are no known methods of construction, but the catwalks around the station can be partially disassembled.
You will need:
To break:
- Wirecutter to cut apart the catwalk surface.
- Wirecutter again to finish cutting apart the catwalk surface. Catwalk supports will remain.
Entire Rooms
You can replicate entire rooms with ABC-Us and blueprint markers from Cog2's Cold Loop and Cog1's Warehouse. More are always available from Cargo's ABCU Unit Crates, regardless of map.
You don't need to replicate entire rooms. You can pick a section of it or multiple sections to create different rooms. The blueprint marker can create multiple blueprints before running out of energy. This way you can pick all the pieces you want in advance and put them together in a new configuration. Remember to save them with their own names so you don't get them mixed.
You will need:
- ABC-U (Automated Blueprint Construction Unit)
- Blueprint marker
- Metal and glass sheets (usually a few hundred!)
To make:
- Select tiles using blueprint marker.
- Click on the blueprint marker in-hand and choose the aptly named Print Blueprint to, well, print a blueprint of the things you just scanned. (If you can no longer print the blueprint from that specific blueprint marker, save the blueprint. You will then be able to print it from other markers.)
- Put the blueprint in the ABC-U.
- Check the material cost on the ABC-U by clicking on the unit and choosing Check Materials. Load accordingly. Fortunately for you, material costs are in sheets rather than bars/blocks.
- Drag the ABC-U into position.
- Lock it down by clicking on the ABC-U unit and choosing Lock.
- Click on the ABC-U unit again and choose Start Beginning to start construction.
Note: ABC-Us can only make new rooms on space tiles, so having EVA equipment is a must.
Miscellaneous
Disposal pipes
Like most things in Space Station 13, the plumbing system is surprisingly deep. A skilled space plumber can set you up for a wild ride that'll send you racing through most of the station and spit you out from a mailbox. Now you can be that skilled plumber.
The building blocks
There's a few pipe dispensers scattered around the station. The most easily accessible one can be found in disposals, and Engineering has a mobile version that makes pipe laying a breeze. Pipes come in 8 variations, 5 of which the dispensers will provide:
Straight - Straight tube.
Bent - Tube bent at a 90 degree angle.
Junction - A three-way junction. The arrow indicates where items exit.
Y-junction - A three-way junction with another exit point.
Trunk - Entry and exit point for pipes. Disposal and mail chutes come pre-connected to these, but players can't connect on their own.
Mail-junction - Not available from the dispenser. A three-way junction with a filter that only allows items to pass through. People and creatures will be diverted away into the side-pipe. Visually distinguished from regular junctions by a red dot on the pipe.
Controlled pipe segments - Specialized equipment available to mechanics.
Managing your pipes
Pipes come in four states:
Free - Can be moved, rotated and flipped over by right-clicking on them.
Wrenched - Wrenched to the floor. Immobile and inoperable. You can walk over them and rotate them.
Welded - Welded to the floor. Immobile and can't be rotated. Fully operable.
Broken - Welded to the floor. Inoperable. Must be welded at all ends to remove.
You need three tools. A crowbar to remove the tiles covering the floor. This exposes existing pipes and lets you place new pipes. A wrench to fasten free pipes. A welding tool to make wrenched pipes operable or to loosen welded pipes.
Controlling the flow
Take these tips to heart and you'll be a plumbing like a champion in no time.
- T-ray scanners show you pipes hidden under floor tiles.
- Always wrench the pipe in place before welding it. Poorly secured pipes will break the floor tile covering it and fall out of place.
- Items will follow the pipeline from chute to exit point as long as every piece is connected, nothing is broken and there's no blockage.
- Items entering a junction from the wrong end (the side with the exit arrow), will randomly go out one of the two other sides.
- Fat people are poorly suited for pipes and can easily create a blockage. Blockages can be cleared by unwelding the blocked section.
- Pipelines ending in a regular pipe will shoot things out in a straight line. Trunks eject items in random directions.
- Combine with programmable electronics components to make some truly wild rides.
Table
You will need:
- Two sheets of regular OR reinforced metal
To make:
- Click on the metal while you're holding it.
- Choose Table Parts.
- Pick up and click on the parts to build a table.
Glass Table
You will need:
- One sheet of metal (regular or reinforced; it does not matter)
- Two sheets of regular OR reinforced glass
To make:
- Click on the metal while holding the glass in your active hand (or vice versa).
- Pick up and click on the parts to build a glass table.
You will need:
- A wrench
To break:
- Loosen the table's bolts with the wrench.
- Disassemble the table parts with the wrench to get glass sheets back.
Heads on a spike
Heads can be removed by clicking on the spike with an empty hand.
You will need:
- One rod
- A severed head (up to 3)
- (Optional: a welder)
To make:
- Impale the head(s) on the rod.
- Optionally, secure the spike by welding it to the ground.
Skull chalice
Jack-o'-lantern
Click the jack-o'-lantern to light it.
You will need:
- A pumpkin
- A flashlight
- A chainsaw or knife
To make:
- Use the chainsaw or knife on the pumpkin to carve it.
- Use the flashlight on the carved pumpkin.
Bandages
You get three bandages for every piece of fabric.
You will need:
- A bedsheet OR cape OR towel
- A pair of scissors or wirecutters
To make:
- Cut the base material apart with the wirecutters or scissors.
Instruments
- Main article: Instruments
Gifts
Wrapping presents consumes units of wrapping paper. All rolls come with 20 units, wrapping tiny- to small-size items takes 4 units, and wrapping normal-size items takes 8 units.
You will need:
- Wrapping paper
- A pair of scissors or wirecutters
- A table
- Something to wrap, obviously. Must be normal-size or smaller.
To make:
- Put the wrapping paper on a table
- Click on the wrapping paper with the item you want to wrap up. Make sure the scissors/wirecutters is in your other hand.
Mousetrap pie launcher
For the seasoned prankster. Go on...open it!
You will need:
To make:
- Attach the arm to the mousetrap.
- Add the pie.
- Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.
You will need:
- (Optional: a wrench)
To break:
- Use the wrench on the launcher to remove the pie.
- Use the wrench on the pieless pie launcher to separate the arm and mousetrap.
Large potato battery
A (mostly) natural power cell that can go inside cyborgs, APCs, and other things normal cells can be inserted into.
Potency of the potato used determines how large the resulting cell's capacity is, while endurance determines if the cell self-charges and at what rate. All tend to be on the low-end.
You will need:
- A potato
- Some wire
To make:
- Click on the potato with the wire to assemble the cell.
Small potato battery
Make your lasers, phasers, and other energy weapons run on carbs, like you.
Potency of the potato used determines the resulting cell's capacity. It generally is in the tens, but quality potatoes can reach the triple digits range.
You will need:
To make:
- Click on the potato with the knife to peel it.
- Click on the potato with the wire to assemble the cell.
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