Construction

All this assumes you've figured out the game pretty well so far. You have, right?

Makin'

Weapons

Bombs

Butt bomb

Harmless prank. Works like a grenade.

You will need:

 A butt
 A timer

To build:

 Add the timer to the butt.

Suicide bomb vest

The payload will be triggered upon death of whoever is wearing the vest, heating the mixture inside the beaker by 30 K (see ignition temperatures) when so equipped. If required, the payload can be removed and the entire suit taken apart with a wrench.

You will need:

 A regular ballistic vest
 A health analyzer
 An igniter
 A grenade OR pipe bomb OR beaker
 A screwdriver
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the health analyzer.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Combine the assembly with the vest.
 If you intend to use the beaker, prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
 Attach the payload to the vest.

Rigged light tube/power cell

A rather uncommon and creative way to booby-trap machinery or whole rooms. It is not a bad idea to turn the power off before installing either of them.

You will need:

 A light tube OR power cell
 A syringe of liquid plasma

To build:

 Inject the light tube or power cell with plasma.

Pipe bomb

Not to be confused with the version traitors can order. Other materials can be used in place of welding fuel if available. Ordered by explosive power: phlogiston, CLF3, black powder or NI3. Plasmastone and erebite work differently in that they are crafted from custom metal sheets, then combined with one of the listed reagents.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A cable coil
 An igniter
 A timer
 A container (beaker, glass etc.) of welding fuel (20 units)
 A welder
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Use the welder on the frame.
 Fill the frame with welding fuel.
 Add some wires.
 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the timer.
 Add the timer/igniter assembly to the pipe frame.

Mousetrap bomb

Compatible with pipe bombs (regular, Syndicate) and grenades. They can be used as makeshift mines or to booby-trap backpacks and other containers. Can be taken apart with a wrench if required.

You will need:

 A mousetrap
 A pipe bomb OR grenade
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Attach the pipe bomb or grenade to the mousetrap.
 Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.

Mousetrap car

A mousetrap bomb on wheels. Once set in motion, the cart will scoot off in whichever direction you're facing and detonate the grenade upon impact with a large object or unfortunate bystander. Can be taken apart with a wrench if required.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A mousetrap bomb (grenade or pipe bomb only)
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Combine the mousetrap bomb with the pipe frame.

Mousetrap pie launcher

For the seasoned prankster. Go on...open it! (Or just take it apart with a wrench.)

You will need:

 A mousetrap
 A left or right arm (any type)
 A pie (any type)
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Attach the arm to the mousetrap.
 Add the pie.
 Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.

Single tank bomb

Also known as plasma tank assemblies. Less powerful than transfer valve bombs, but they still fit in backpacks. You'll have to discover suitable gas mixtures yourself.

You will need:

 A plasma tank
 An igniter
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
 A screwdriver
 A welder

To build:

 Fill the plasma tank with a gas mixture of your choice.
 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Attach the assembly to the plasma tank.
 Weld a hole in the tank.

Transfer valve bomb

Big bombs for a big bang. Again, this guide won't tell you how to create the perfect explosive mix, so feel free to sign up as a scientist and mess around with the equipment in the laboratory. You should also use the mainframe and VR goggles to run simulations instead of testing your bombs on the station.

You will need:

 A tank of heated gas (Tip: usually involves plasma.)
 A tank of a reactive gas (Tip: ...and oxygen.)
 A tank transfer valve
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller

To build:

 Connect the first tank to the transfer valve.
 Do the same with the other tank.
 Attach the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller to the transfer valve.

Transfer valve butt

To build this (mostly) harmless gimmick bomb, simply substitute the tank of reactive gas for a butt. No other modifications are necessary. Keep the pressure in the other tank high for a truly horrific blast.

Canister bomb

Massive bombs. As usual, the gas mixture is not revealed, only the assembly process.

You will need:

 A canister full of an explosive gas mixture.
 A plasma tank filled to at least 700 kPa of pure plasma.
 A timer
 An igniter
 A cable coil
 A screwdriver
 A multitool
 A station bounced radio (optional) - Creates a command report upon priming.
 A remote signaller (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)
 A pair of wirecutters (optional)
 Suitable attachment class items (optional, see list below)

To build:

 Use the screwdriver to unsecure the igniter.
 Add the multitool to the igniter.
 Add the plasma tank to the assembly.
 Secure the assembly with a screwdriver.
 Use the cable coil on the assembly.
 Add the timer to the assembly.
 Optionally, add the station bounced radio to your assembly.
 Optionally, add a remote signalling device to your assembly.
 Optionally, add up to three attachment class items to your assembly.
 Use the assembly on the canister.

The detonator assembly may have up to 3 attachment class items. Each attachment adds an additional wire to the assembly, each having a unique effect. You may have more than one of any type of attachment.

 An analyzer (Detonates the bomb if the gas is leaking from the canister.)
 A power cell (Adds an additional detonation wire.)
 A flash (Occasionally flashes nearby people.)
 A sheet of paper and a pen (Adds a note to the canister bomb interface.)
 A bike horn (Self-explanatory.)
 A vuvuzela. (Ditto.)

Detonators may be disassembled if necessary. A screwdriver is required to unscrew and a crowbar is required to pry out the plasma tank, and everything else can be cut apart with the wirecutters. Attachments may be removed from the assembly with a screwdriver.

Stun gloves

Your intent must be set to harm in order for the gloves to work. They only hold one charge at a time.

You will need:

 A pair of insulated gloves OR power gloves
 A charged power cell
 A cable coil

To build:

 Add some wiring to the gloves.
 Use the power cell on the gloves to charge them.

Flamethrower

Welding fuel is a solid choice. You can also fill the tank with other reagents, so there is plenty of room for experimentation. See Chemistry for more information.

You will need:

 A welder
 One rod
 An igniter
 An air mix OR oxygen tank
 A fuel tank
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the welder.
 Attach the rod to the welder.
 Combine the igniter with the welder/rod assembly.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Attach the air mix or oxygen tank to the assembly.
 Add the fuel tank to the assembly.

Antique laser gun

See Guns for more information.

You will need:

 An antique laser gun
 A charged power cell (small)
 A small coil
 A lens
 A cable coil
 A screwdriver
 A multitool
 A soldering iron

To build:

 Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
 Add wiring.
 Install the small coil.
 Solder the coil into place.
 Install the lens.
 Use the multitool.
 Install the power cell.
 Close the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.

Zip gun

You can use different types of ammunition, of which .38 Special is easiest to obtain from a hacked general manufacturer. The zip gun holds two rounds at a time.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A welder
 A staple gun

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Use the welder on the frame.
 Combine the the staple gun with the frame.

Flash/cell assembly

In addition to stunning people like any other flash, this overcharged version also sets them on fire. Unlike a regular flash, it will only work once. If required, the assembly can be taken apart by using a screwdriver followed by a wrench.

You will need:

 A flash
 A charged power cell
 A screwdriver
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Open the flash's battery compartment with the screwdriver.
 Attach the power cell to the flash.

Poisoned surgery tools

Certain surgery tools can be dipped in a poison or other reagent for fun and wacky effects upon stabbing.

You will need:

 A scalpel OR saw OR enucleation spoon
 A filled container (beaker, glass etc.)

To build:

 Dip the scalpel, saw or spoon in the beaker.

Miscellaneous assemblies

Timers and other basic tools may be put together as assemblies, most of which can function as bomb detonators. Not included is the health analyzer/igniter combination, a suicide bomb vest-specific trigger.

Igniter assembly

The bread-and-butter choice for most situations.

You will need:

 An igniter
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the igniter.
 If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
 Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or signaller.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.

Signaller assembly

A standalone, proximity- or timer-activated radio. Doesn't work as an attachment, but can come in handy to remotely trigger bombs or door bolts. The bike horn assembly is only useful for noise pollution, though.

You will need:

 A remote signaller
 A proximity sensor OR timer OR bike horn
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the signaller (not required for horn assembly).
 Attach the signaller to the proximity sensor, timer or bike horn.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver (not required for horn assembly).

Beaker assembly

These assemblies are quite popular to release chemical smoke from a safe distance - for the user at least. Deadly in the hands of a skilled chemist. When triggered, the igniter will heat the mixture by 30 K (see ignition temperatures). To detach the beaker, place the whole thing on the floor and use the context menu by right-clicking on it.

You will need:

 A beaker
 An igniter assembly
 A screwdriver

To build:

 If the assembly has been secured beforehand, undo that with the screwdriver.
 Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
 Combine the igniter assembly with the beaker.
 Secure the beaker assembly with the screwdriver.

Chemical grenade

The starter kit generally can't be acquired without a traitor scientist's PDA. See Murder for more information.

Note: You can't retrieve the beakers after securing the grenade, so make sure your chemical mix works beforehand!

You will need:

 A grenade starter kit
 Up to 2 beakers
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Add the fuse to the grenade casing.
 Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
 Add the beaker(s) to the unsecured grenade.
 Secure it with the screwdriver.

Chemical grenade assembly

Combines the advantages of chem grenades (two beakers) with the versatility of beaker assemblies.

You will need:

 A chemical grenade (Anything that looks like this: )
 An igniter assembly

To build:

 Combine the igniter assembly with the chem grenade.

Machinery

Space Pod

Be advised that you have to stand adjacent to the south west corner of the pod in order to construct it, since it is a 64x64 sprite. Use a bottle of champagne on the finished pod to give it a unique name.

You will need:

 A pod frame kit
 A box of pod circuitry
 A pod control interface
 An engine manifold
 A set of pod armour
 A paint job kit (optional)
 A cable coil
 5 metal sheets
 5 reinforced glass sheets
 A wrench
 A welder

To build:

 Deploy the frame kit by clicking on the box.
 Wrench the jumble of metal. It should look less like a pile of junk.
 Wrench again. It should look like a functional but unsecured frame of a space pod.
 Use the welder.
 Insert wires.
 Place the circuitry inside the frame.
 Add metal to the frame.
 Install the engine manifold.
 Put armor on the pod frame.
 Use the welder.
 Install the control interface.
 Add the reinforced glass sheets.
 Optionally, use the paint job kit on the finished pod.

MiniPutt

Some of the key components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same. And as with space pods, you can rename the finished craft with a champagne bottle.

You will need:

 A MiniPutt frame kit
 A box of MiniPutt circuitry
 A MiniPutt control interface
 A MiniPutt engine manifold
 A set of pod armour
 A paint job kit (optional)
 A cable coil
 3 metal sheets
 3 reinforced glass sheets
 A wrench
 A welder

To build:

 Follow the Space Pod guide.

Computers

Console

Intended for computers built from a single circuit board. Console frames don't accept mainboards and peripheral cards.

You will need:

 5 metal sheets
 2 glass sheets
 A cable coil
 A wrench
 A screwdriver
 One circuit board

To build:

 Click on the metal and choose 'Console frame'.
 Wrench the frame into place.
 Insert the circuit board.
 Use the screwdriver.
 Add wires.
 Use the glass on the frame.
 Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

Terminal

Useful for computers built from components and peripherals. Wired computers (as in part of a network) will need to be positioned over a data terminal (deployable with the help of a mechanic), which in turn has to be connected to the power grid.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 1 glass sheets
 A cable coil
 A wrench
 A screwdriver
 A computer mainboard
 Up to 2 peripheral cards (An ID scanner module is pretty much mandatory.)
 A storage drive

To build:

 Click on the metal and choose choose 'Computer terminal frame'.
 Wrench the frame into place.
 Insert the computer mainboard.
 Use the screwdriver.
 Insert the peripheral cards (up to 2).
 Add wires.
 Insert the storage drive.
 Use the glass on the frame.
 Connect the monitor with the screwdriver.

Heavy

Some of the components are slightly different, but the construction plan is otherwise the same.

You will need:

 5 metal sheets
 2 glass sheets
 A cable coil
 A wrench
 A screwdriver
 A computer mainboard
 Up to 3 peripheral cards (An ID scanner module is pretty much mandatory.)
 A storage drive

To build:

 Click on the metal and choose choose 'Computer frame'.
 Follow the Terminal guide for the rest.

Electric Chair

To change the default frequency/code, you must click on the electropack while you're holding it, and modify it from the pop-up interface. Electric chairs can be remotely activated, but must be toggled on before usage (right click, and select controls). Also, the room must have power for the chair to work. Said power can come from two sources: the local APC (capped at ~80 BURN) or a direct, wired connection to the power grid (scales with the engine's output, and can even vaporize somebody).

To disassemble the chair, use a wrench.

You will need:

 An electropack
 A security helmet
 One sheet of metal
 A cable coil (optional)
 A remote signaler (optional)
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Optionally, lay wires using the cable coil to create a direct connection to the power grid.
 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Build a chair. Optionally, place it on the same tile as the prepared wiring.
 Optionally, change the electropack's default frequency and code.
 Use the helmet on the electropack.
 Attach the helmet/electropack assembly to the chair.

Light fixtures

These fixtures, installed by Nanotrasen or otherwise, are controlled by the local APC. Light tubes and bulbs may be obtained from boxes (ask the janitor) or a general manufacturer.

You will need:

 A wall
 Two metal sheets
 A light tube or bulb

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into one set of light fixture parts.
 Attach the parts to a wall.
 Insert the light tube or bulb, depending on the type of fixture.

Station Bots

Cyborgs

See Roboticist

AI shells

See Roboticist

Other robots

See Robots

Fixing bombed APCs

This is for APCs that have been completely broken (they have a damaged sprite and the area is left unpowered), not APCs that have had their wires shorted.

You will need:

 A screwdriver
 A wrench
 A multitool
 A cable coil

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the APC.
 Add the wire.
 Wrench the APC.
 Apply the mulitool.
 Finally, use the screwdriver on it again.

Fixing microwaves

If the microwave is just dirty, use a spray bottle of space cleaner. A completely broken unit has to be fixed with some tools.

You will need:

 A screwdriver
 A wrench

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the microwave.
 Finish the job with a wrench.

Fixing manufacturers

You will need:

  A screwdriver
  A welder OR cable coil

To fix:

  Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
  Depending on the severity of the damage, use the welder (light) or cable coil (heavy).
  Use the screwdriver again to close the panel.

Clothing

Skull mask

Custom masks are named after the former owner of the skull.

You will need:

 A skull
 A circular saw

To build:

 Hollow out the skull with the circular saw.

Paper mask

Standard pens contain black ink, and you can also use a red or blue marker.

You will need:

 A sheet of paper
 A cable coil
 A pair of scissors or wirecutters
 A pen (optional)

To build:

 Cut the paper with the scissors or wirecutters.
 Use the cable coil on the unfinished mask.
 Optionally, colour the mask with the pen.

Bucket helmet

You will need:

 A bucket
 A pair of wirecutters

To build:

 Cut eye holes with the wirecutters.

Ghost disguise

You will need:

 A bedsheet
 A pair of scissors or wirecutters

To build:

 Cut eye holes with the scissors or wirecutters.

Cape

If required, the cable holding the cape together can be cut apart with wirecutters or scissors.

You will need:

 A bedsheet
 A cable coil
 A pair of scissors or wirecutters (optional)

To build:

 Use the cable coil on the bedsheet.

Armored Biosuit

You will need:

 A biosuit
 A regular ballistic vest

To build:

 Attach the body armor to the biosuit.

Armored paramedic suit

You will need:

 A paramedic suit
 A regular ballistic vest

To build:

 Attach the body armor to the paramedic suit.

Armored firesuit

You will need:

 A firesuit
 A regular ballistic vest

To build:

 Attach the body armor to the firesuit.

Rocket Shoes

How many uses you get out of these depend on the type of tank: 2 (emergency O2), 4 (large air or O2) or 6 (jetpack). Do not expect much in the way of steering either way. Rocket shoes are technically disposable, but you can build another pair by taping a replacement gas tank to it.

You will need:

 A jetpack OR air/O2 tank OR emergency oxygen tank
 A pair of shoes (any type)

To build:

 Use the gas tank on the shoes.

Shackles

Forces the wearer to move at walking speed. Shackles can be taken apart by holding them in an active hand and clicking on them.

You will need:

 A pair of orange shoes
 A pair of handcuffs

To build:

 Use the handcuffs on the orange shoes.

Walls, Doors, and Floors

Metal Walls

While a variety of metals may be used to create sheets and rods, different materials can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project. For example, it's impossible to add mauxite plating to a steel girder.

Regular

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.

Reinforced

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 Two rods

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods twice.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
 Use the remaining reinforced metal sheets to add the plating.

Glass Walls/Windows

Regular window (one direction)

Windows will be build in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

 One sheet of glass
 A screwdriver (optional)

To build:

 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Thin Window.
 Optionally, unsecure the window by using the screwdriver, then then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.

Regular window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

 Two sheets of glass
 A screwdriver (optional)

To build:

 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Large Window.
 Optionally, secure the window by using the screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

Reinforced window (one direction)

Windows will be build in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

 One sheet of glass
 One rod
 A screwdriver (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)

To build:

 Combine the rod with the glass sheet.
 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Thin Window.
 Optionally, unsecure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.
 Optionally, right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.

Reinforced window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

 Two sheets of glass
 Two rods
 A screwdriver (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)

To build:

 Combine the rods with the glass sheets.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced glass sheets.
 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Large Window.
 Optionally, secure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

Floors

 Regular floors can be made in space by:
   - using rods first on empty space, creating a lattice
   - then placing a floor tile on top of it (floor tiles can be made from a sheet of metal)
 Use another floor tile on the plating to create a regular floor.
 Fire-resistant floors can be made using one floor tile, and one rods
 Use rods on plating to create a floor similar to the engine floor

Barricades

 Barricades can be made in space by:
   - using rods first on empty space, creating a lattice
   - then using more rods on the lattice to create the barricade
   - and can be reinforced with even more rods

Hidden Doors

While a variety of metals may be used to create sheets and rods, different materials can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project. For example, it's impossible to add mauxite plating to a steel girder.

Hidden Door - Regular Wall

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 A crowbar

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
 Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.

Hidden Door - Reinforced Wall

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 Two rods
 A crowbar

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
 Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods twice.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to add the plating.

Entire Rooms

ABC-Us and blueprint markers can be found in the supply warehouse. You don't need to replicate entire rooms. You can pick a section of it or multiple sections to create different rooms. The blueprint marker can create multiple blueprints before running out of energy. This way you can pick all the pieces you want in advance and put them together in a new configuration. Remember to save them with their own names so you don't get them mixed.

You will need:

ABC-U (Automated Blueprint Construction Unit)
Blueprint marker
Metal and glass sheets

To build:

Select tiles using blueprint marker.
Print a blueprint from the marker and put it in the ABC-U.
Check the material cost on the ABC-U and load accordingly.
Drag the ABC-U in position, lock it down and make it start building.

Note: ABC-Us can only make new rooms on space tiles.

Misc

Building and fixing disposal pipes

Like most things in Space Station 13, the plumbing system is surprisingly deep. A skilled space plumber can set you up for a wild ride that'll send you racing through most of the station and spit you out from a mailbox. Now you can be that skilled plumber.

The building blocks

There's a few pipe dispensers scattered around the station. The most easily accessible one can be found in disposals. Pipes come in 8 variations, 5 of which the dispensers will provide:

Straight - Straight tube.
Bent - Tube bent at a 90 degree angle.
Junction - A three-way junction. The arrow indicates where items exit.
Y-junction - A three-way junction with another exit point.
Trunk - Entry and exit point for pipes. Disposal and mail chutes come pre-connected to these, but players can't connect on their own.
Mail-junction - Not available from the dispenser. A three-way junction with a filter that only allows items to pass through. People and creatures will be diverted away into the side-pipe. Visually distinguished from regular junctions by a red dot on the pipe.
Controlled pipe segments - Specialized equipment available to mechanics.

Managing your pipes

Pipes come in four states:

Free - Can be moved, rotated and flipped over by right-clicking on them.
Wrenched - Wrenched to the floor. Immobile and inoperable. You can walk over them and rotate them.
Welded - Welded to the floor. Immobile and can't be rotated. Fully operable.
Broken - Welded to the floor. Inoperable. Must be welded at all ends to remove.

You need three tools. A crowbar to remove the tiles covering the floor. This exposes existing pipes and lets you place new pipes. A wrench to fasten free pipes. A welding tool to make wrenched pipes operable or to loosen welded pipes.

Controlling the flow

Take these tips to heart and you'll be a plumbing like a champion in no time.

• T-ray scanners show you pipes hidden under floor tiles.
• Always wrench the pipe in place before welding it. Poorly secured pipes will break the floor tile covering it and fall out of place.
• Items will follow the pipeline from chute to exit point as long as every piece is connected, nothing is broken and there's no blockage.
• Items entering a junction from the wrong end (the side with the exit arrow), will randomly go out one of the two other sides.
• Fat people are poorly suited for pipes and can easily create a blockage. Blockages can be cleared by unwelding the blocked section.
• Pipelines ending in a regular pipe will shoot things out in a straight line. Trunks eject items in random directions.
• Combine with programmable electronics components to make some truly wild rides.

Table

You will need:

 Two sheets of regular OR reinforced metal

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Table Parts.
 Pick up and click on the parts to build a table.

Heads on a spike

Heads can be removed by clicking on the spike with an empty hand.

You will need:

 One rod
 A severed head (up to 3)
 A welder (optional)

To build:

 Impale the head(s) on the rod.
 Optionally, secure the spike by welding it to the ground.

Skull chalice

You will need:

 A skull
 One rod

To build:

 Use the rod on the skull.

Jack-o'-lantern

Click the jack-o'-lantern to light it.

You will need:

 A pumpkin
 A flashlight
 A chainsaw or knife

To build:

 Use the chainsaw or knife on the pumpkin to carve it.
 Use the flashlight on the carved pumpkin.

Bandages

You get three bandages for every piece of fabric.

You will need:

 A bedsheet OR cape OR towel
 A pair of scissors or wirecutters

To build:

 Cut the base material apart with the wirecutters or scissors.

Breakin'

For more, see Hacking

Note that almost everything can be destroyed with a bomb.. but we hope you don't get that desperate.

Walls, Doors, and Floors

Airlock

 Screwdriver on Airlock
 Click Airlock (without screwdriver in hand)
 Have a Multitool in hand to test which wire does what
 Have a Wirecutter to cut or mend desired wire(s)
 If test light is on and bolts are down, pulse the wires to raise bolts.
 Crowbar opens unpowered doors with raised bolts
 Screwdriver the door to close it up when finished.
 Crowbar also opens powered doors, whose test lights are off,and
 the bolts up.

Door wiring is randomized per game, but all doors have the same wires. Using a multitool to pulse wires will only work if the door has power. Cutting wires can rid the door of some features (AI Control for instance) until the said wire is mended.

Ghetto Door hacking works on all doors:

 Screwdriver on some random Airlock
 Wirecutters on Airlock
 Cut everything until the bolts drop, make a note of which color does this
 Leave
 Screwdriver the Airlock you want to open
 Wirecutters, cut every other wire except that one
 Crowbar the door

Firedoors

 Crowbar to Open/Close
 Welder to seal Closed

Metal Grille

 Wirecutter to destroy, welder to remove what's left OR
 Screwdriver to remove/re-secure

Some grilles are electrified, as such it would be wise to have Insulated Gloves on before attempting to destroy or dislodge it. Alternatively, hit it repeatedly with a shard of glass to avoid a shock.

Glass Windows

 Welder to break OR
 Screwdriver to loosen, then push out OR
 Bashing object to break

Reinforced Windows

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Screwdriver
 OR
 Bash in with heavy object(Fire Extinguisher takes approximately five hits)

Regular Walls

 Welder
 Screwdriver on 'Wall' to dislodge girders OR
 Wrench to dismantle girders

Note that the metal plates created by doing this obscure most of the 'wall', so be sure you are clicking on the right thing.

Reinforced Walls

 Wirecutter
 Screwdriver
 Welder
 Crowbar
 Wrench
 Welder
 Crowbar
 Screwdriver
 Wirecutter
 Wrench

Note: Wait 5-8 secs for each to complete.

Hidden Doors - Regular and Reinforced Walls

To disassemble:

 Screwdriver
 Wrench

Computers

Console

To Break:

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Wirecutters
 Screwdriver
 Crowbar (removes circuit board)
 Wrench
 Welder

Note: Not all computers can be dismantled.

Terminal/Heavy

To Break:

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Crowbar (removes hard drive)
 Wirecutters
 Crowbar (removes all modules)
 Screwdriver
 Crowbar (removes motherboard)
 Wrench
 Welder

APC

 Screwdriver
 Click on APC and drag the windows away from each other so you can see both at once
 Get wirecutters out of your toolbox/backpack/pockets and use them on the APC with the windows still open

There are four wires. Two short out the APC when cut, one cuts AI control when cut, and one does nothing when cut, but unlocks the APC when pulsed with a multitool. There's a chance you'll get shocked when cutting wires, so either have insulated gloves or do it in an isolated area where no-one will find you. South maintenance is a good choice.

Fire Alarms, Security Cameras, and Atmosphere Alarms

 Wirecutter to Break, and Fix

Manufacturers

Keep in mind that completely dismantled fabricators can't be replaced without the help of electronics!

You will need:

 A wrench
 A crowbar
 A wirecutters

To break:

 Open the outer cover with the wrench.
 Use the crowbar to pry off the cover.
 Remove the wiring with the wirecutters.
 Undo the final bolts with the wrench.

Light fixtures

You will need:

 A light fixture
 A screwdriver
 An ID card with engineering access

To break:

 Unlock the local APC and turn off the lighting circuit. 
 Remove the light tube or bulb.
 Use the screwdriver on the light fixture to disassemble it.

Obsolete Junk

Removed or otherwise obsolete construction plans kept for reference.

Fixing Propulsion Thrusters

Technically working, but shuttle engines cannot be damaged anymore. It was previously possible to immobilize them by disabling the thrusters.

You will need:

 A screwdriver
 EVA gear (optional, but recommended)

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the thruster to secure its outer frame.
 Do the same with the other engine, if necessary.