Difference between revisions of "Construction"

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m (Light fixtures can't be attached to reinforced walls at the moment.)
m (Link updated: drinking glass.)
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   An [[Science Objects#Igniter|igniter]]
   An [[Science Objects#Igniter|igniter]]
   A [[Science Objects#Timer|timer]]
   A [[Science Objects#Timer|timer]]
   A container ([[Medical Objects#Beaker|beaker]], [[General Objects#Glass|glass]] etc.) of welding fuel
   A container ([[Medical Objects#Beaker|beaker]], [[Foods and Drinks#Other Food-Related Items|glass]] etc.) of welding fuel
   A [[Engineering Objects#Welder|welder]]
   A [[Engineering Objects#Welder|welder]]
   A [[Engineering Objects#Screwdriver|screwdriver]]
   A [[Engineering Objects#Screwdriver|screwdriver]]

Revision as of 08:49, 1 October 2014

All this assumes you've figured out the game pretty well so far. You have, right?

Makin'

Weapons

Bombs

Suicide bomb vest

Despite the name, no bombs are actually involved (anymore). The payload will be triggered upon death of whoever is wearing the vest. If required, the payload can be removed with a wrench.

You will need:

 A regular ballistic vest
 A health analyzer
 An igniter
 A grenade OR beaker (Only grenades with this sprite are compatible: Chemgrenade.png)
 A screwdriver
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the health analyzer.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Click on the assembly with the vest to combine them.
 If you intend to use the beaker, prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
 To attach a grenade, use it on the vest.
 To attach a beaker, click on it with the vest - not the other way around!
Rigged light tube/power cell

A rather uncommon and creative way to booby-trap machinery or whole rooms. It is not a bad idea to turn the power off before installing either of them.

You will need:

 A light tube OR power cell
 A syringe of liquid plasma

To build:

 Inject the light tube or power cell with plasma.
Pipe bomb

Not to be confused with the version traitors can order. Black powder, plasmastone or erebite can be used in place of welding fuel if available.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A cable coil
 An igniter
 A timer
 A container (beaker, glass etc.) of welding fuel
 A welder
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Use the welder on the frame.
 Fill the frame with welding fuel.
 Add some wires.
 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the timer.
 Add the timer/igniter assembly to the pipe frame.
Mousetrap bomb

Compatible with pipe bombs (regular, Syndicate) and most grenades. They can be used as makeshift mines or to booby-trap backpacks and other containers.

You will need:

 A mousetrap
 A pipe bomb OR grenade (Only grenades with this sprite are compatible: Chemgrenade.png)

To build:

 Attach the pipe bomb or grenade to the mousetrap.
 Don't forget to arm the mousetrap by clicking on it before use.
Mousetrap car

A mousetrap bomb on wheels. Once set in motion, the cart will scoot off in whichever direction you're facing and detonate the grenade upon impact with a large object or unfortunate bystander.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A mousetrap bomb (grenade only)

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Combine the mousetrap bomb with the pipe frame.
Single tank bomb

Also known as plasma tank assemblies. Less powerful than transfer valve bombs, but they still fit in backpacks. You'll have to discover suitable gas mixtures yourself.

You will need:

 A plasma tank
 An igniter
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
 A screwdriver
 A welder

To build:

 Fill the plasma tank with a gas mixture of your choice.
 Use a screwdriver on the igniter.
 Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Attach the assembly to the plasma tank.
 Weld a hole in the tank.
Transfer valve bomb

Big bombs for a big bang. Again, this guide won't tell you how to create the perfect explosive mix, so feel free to sign up as a scientist and mess around with the equipment in the laboratory. You should also use the mainframe and VR goggles to run simulations instead of testing your bombs on the station.

You will need:

 A tank of heated gas
 A tank filled with an explosive mixture (Tip: usually involves plasma and oxygen.)
 A tank transfer valve
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller

To build:

 Connect the first tank to the transfer valve.
 Do the same with the other tank.
 Attach the timer, proximity sensor or remote signaller to the transfer valve.
Canister bomb

Massive bombs. As usual, the gas mixture is not revealed, only the assembly process.

You will need:

 A canister full of an explosive gas mixture.
 A plasma tank filled to at least 700 kPa of pure plasma.
 A timer
 An igniter
 A wire coil
 A screwdriver
 A multitool
 A station bounced radio (optional) - Creates a command report upon priming.
 A remote signaller (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)
 A pair of wirecutters (optional)
 Suitable attachment class items (optional, see list below)

To build:

 Use the screwdriver to unsecure the igniter.
 Add the multitool to the igniter.
 Add the plasma tank to the assembly.
 Secure the assembly with a screwdriver.
 Use the cable coil on the assembly.
 Add the timer to the assembly.
 Optionally, add the station bounced radio to your assembly.
 Optionally, add a remote signalling device to your assembly.
 Optionally, add up to three attachment class items to your assembly.
 Use the assembly on the canister.

The detonator assembly may have up to 3 attachment class items. Each attachment adds an additional wire to the assembly, each having a unique effect. You may have more than one of any type of attachment.

 An analyzer (Detonates the bomb if the gas is leaking from the canister.)
 A power cell (Adds an additional detonation wire.)
 A flash (Occasionally flashes nearby people.)
 A sheet of paper and a pen (Adds a note to the canister bomb interface.)
 A bike horn (Self-explanatory.)
 A vuvuzela. (Ditto.)

Detonators may be disassembled if necessary. A screwdriver is required to unscrew and a crowbar is required to pry out the plasma tank, and everything else can be cut apart with the wirecutters. Attachments may be removed from the assembly with a screwdriver.

Stun gloves

Your intent must be set to Harm in order for the gloves to work. They only hold one charge at a time.

You will need:

 A pair of insulated gloves
 A charged power cell
 A wire coil

To build:

 Add some wiring to the gloves.
 Hold the gloves in your active hand.
 Click with the gloves on the power cell.

Flamethrower

Welding fuel is a solid choice. You can also fill the tank with other reagents, so there is plenty of room for experimentation. See Chemistry for more information.

You will need:

 A welder
 One rod
 An igniter
 An air mix OR oxygen tank
 A fuel tank
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the welder.
 Attach the rod to the welder.
 Combine the igniter with the welder/rod assembly.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
 Attach the air mix or oxygen tank to the assembly.
 Add the fuel tank to the assembly.

Zip gun

You can use different types of ammunition, of which .38 Special is easiest to obtain from a hacked general manufacturer. The zip gun holds two rounds at a time.

You will need:

 3 metal sheets
 A welder
 A staple gun

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into a pipe frame.
 Use the welder on the frame.
 Combine the the staple gun with the frame.

Flash/cell assembly

In addition to stunning people like any other flash, this overcharged version also sets them on fire. Unlike a regular flash, it will only work once.

You will need:

 A flash
 A charged power cell
 A screwdriver 

To build:

 Open the flash's battery compartment with the screwdriver.
 Attach the power cell to the flash.

Miscellaneous assemblies

File:IgniterAssemblies.png

Timers and other basic tools may be put together as assemblies, most of which can function as bomb detonators. Not included is the health analyzer/igniter combination, a suicide bomb vest-specific trigger.

Igniter assembly

The bread-and-butter choice for most situations.

You will need:

 An igniter
 A timer OR proximity sensor OR remote signaller
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the igniter.
 If you intend to employ a signaller, use the screwdriver on it as well.
 Combine the igniter with the timer, proximity sensor or signaller.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
Signaller assembly

A standalone, proximity- or timer-activated radio. Doesn't work as an attachment, but can come in handy to remotely trigger bombs or door bolts.

You will need:

 A remote signaller
 A proximity sensor OR timer
 A screwdriver

To build:

 Use the screwdriver on the signaller.
 Attach the signaller to the proximity sensor or timer.
 Secure the assembly with the screwdriver.
Beaker assembly

BeakerAssemblies.png

These assemblies are quite popular to release chemical smoke from a safe distance - for the user at least. Deadly in the hands of a skilled chemist. To detach the beaker, place the whole thing on the floor and use the context menu by right-clicking on it.

You will need:

 A beaker
 An igniter assembly
 A screwdriver

To build:

 If the assembly has been secured beforehand, undo that with the screwdriver.
 Prepare a chemical mix of your choice.
 Combine the igniter assembly with the beaker.
 Secure the beaker assembly with the screwdriver.

Walls, Doors, and Floors

Metal Walls

While a variety of metals may be used to create sheets and rods, different materials can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project. For example, it's impossible to add mauxite plating to a steel girder.

Regular

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.
Reinforced

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 Two rods

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods twice.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to reinforce it.
 Use the remaining reinforced metal sheets to add the plating.

Glass Walls/Windows

Regular window (one direction)

Windows will be build in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

 One sheet of glass
 A screwdriver (optional)

To build:

 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Thin Window.
 Optionally, unsecure the window by using the screwdriver, then then right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.
Regular window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

 Two sheets of glass
 A screwdriver (optional)

To build:

 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Large Window.
 Optionally, secure the window by using the screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

Reinforced window (one direction)

Windows will be build in the direction your mob is facing. They are fastened to the floor by default.

You will need:

 One sheet of glass
 One rod
 A screwdriver (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)

To build:

 Combine the rod with the glass sheet.
 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Thin Window.
 Optionally, unsecure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.
 Optionally, right-click and choose rotate to reorient the window.
Reinforced window (full)

You may push/pull this window around. By default, they are not fastened to the floor.

You will need:

 Two sheets of glass
 Two rods
 A screwdriver (optional)
 A crowbar (optional)

To build:

 Combine the rods with the glass sheets.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced glass sheets.
 Click on the glass while you're holding it.
 Choose Large Window.
 Optionally, secure the window by using screwdriver-crowbar-screwdriver.

Note: Glass made of different types of material can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project.

Floors

 Regular floors can be made in space by:
   - using rods first on empty space, creating a lattice
   - then placing a floor tile on top of it (floor tiles can be made from a sheet of metal)
 Use another floor tile on the plating to create a regular floor.
 Fire-resistant floors can be made using one floor tile, and one rods
 Use rods on plating to create a floor similar to the engine floor

Barricades

 Barricades can be made in space by:
   - using rods first on empty space, creating a lattice
   - then using more rods on the lattice to create the barricade
   - and can be reinforced with even more rods

Hidden Doors

While a variety of metals may be used to create sheets and rods, different materials can't be used interchangeably within the same construction project. For example, it's impossible to add mauxite plating to a steel girder.

Hidden Door - Regular Wall

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 A crowbar

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
 Add plating by clicking on the girder with the metal.
Hidden Door - Reinforced Wall

You will need:

 Four sheets of metal
 Two rods
 A crowbar

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Wall Girders.
 Use the crowbar on the girder to dislodge it.
 Combine the remaining metal sheets with the rods twice.
 Pick up and stack the reinforced metal sheets and then click on the girder to add the plating.

Entire Rooms

ABC-Us and blueprint markers can be found in the supply warehouse. You don't need to replicate entire rooms. You can pick a section of it or multiple sections to create different rooms. The blueprint marker can create multiple blueprints before running out of energy. This way you can pick all the pieces you want in advance and put them together in a new configuration. Remember to save them with their own names so you don't get them mixed.

You will need:

ABC-U (Automated Blueprint Construction Unit)
Blueprint marker
Metal and glass sheets

To build:

Select tiles using blueprint marker.
Print a blueprint from the marker and put it in the ABC-U.
Check the material cost on the ABC-U and load accordingly.
Drag the ABC-U in position, lock it down and make it start building.

Note: ABC-Us can only make new rooms on space tiles.

Misc.

Table

You will need:

 Two sheets of regular OR reinforced metal

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Choose Table Parts.
 Pick up and click on the parts to build a table.

Electric Chair

To change the default frequency/code, you must click on the electropack while you're holding it, and modify it from the pop-up interface. Electric chairs can be remotely activated, but must be toggled on before usage (right click, and select controls). Also, the room must have power for the chair to work.

To disassemble the chair, use a wrench.

You will need:

 An electropack
 A security helmet
 One sheet of metal
 A remote signaler (optional)
 A wrench (optional)

To build:

 Click on the metal while you're holding it.
 Build a chair.
 Optionally, change the electropack's default frequency and code.
 Use the helmet on the electropack.
 Attach the helmet/electropack assembly to the chair.

Station Bots

Cyborgs

See Roboticist

AI shells

See Roboticist

Other robots

See Robots

Computers

Normal computer:

You will need:

 5 sheets of metal
 2 sheets of glass
 5 pieces of wire
 wrench
 screwdriver
 1 circuit board

To Build:

 have the metal in hand, click on it, choose 'Console frame'
 wrench
 insert circuit board
 screwdriver
 wires
 glass
 screwdriver

Note: Useful for computers which are built from one board only.

Heavy computers and Computer terminals:

You will need:

 5 sheets of metal
 2 sheets of glass
 5 pieces of wire
 wrench
 screwdriver
 1 id scanner module (+ up to 2 more modules)
 1 storage drive
 1 computer mainboard

To Build:

 have the metal in hand, click on it, choose 'Computer frame' or 'Computer terminal frame'
 wrench
 insert computer mainboard
 screwdriver
 insert all modules (up to 3)
 wires
 insert storage drive
 glass
 screwdriver

Note: Useful for DOS run computers, built from components.

Fixing bombed APCs

This is for APCs that have been completely broken (They have a damaged sprite and the area is left unpowered), not APCs that have had their wires shorted.

You will need:

 screwdriver
 wrench
 multitool
 4 pieces of wire

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the APC.
 Add the wire.
 Wrench the APC.
 Apply the mulitool.
 Finally, use the screwdriver on it again.

Fixing microwaves

If the microwave is just dirty, use a spray bottle of space cleaner. A completely broken unit has to be fixed with some tools.

You will need:

 screwdriver
 wrench

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the microwave.
 Finish the job with a wrench.

Fixing manufacturers

You will need:

  A screwdriver
  A welder OR cable coil

To fix:

  Open the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
  Depending on the severity of the damage, use the welder (light) or cable coil (heavy).
  Use the screwdriver again to close the panel.

Jack-o'-lantern

You will need:

 Pumpkin
 Chainsaw or knife
 Flashlight

To build:

 Use the chainsaw or knife on the pumpkin to carve it
 Use the flashlight on the carved pumpkin

Note: Click the jack-o'-lantern to light it

Rocket Shoes

You will need:

 Emergency oxygen tank
 Any pair of normal shoes

To build:

 Use emergency oxygen tank on shoes

Note: It will run out of gas after two uses. Do not expect much in the way of steering.

Shackles

You will need:

 Handcuffs
 Orange shoes

To build:

 Use handcuffs on orange shoes

Note: Will force the wearer to move at walking speed.

Armored Biosuit

You will need:

 Biosuit
 Body Armor

To build:

 Use body armor on biosuit

Ghost disguise

You will need:

 Bedsheet
 Scissors or Wirecutters

To build:

 Use scissors or wirecutters on bedsheet

Space Pod

Tag it with a labeler to give it a unique name. To add extras, use a crowbar on the South West corner of the pod and add any system. To replace an existing system (like the engine), click the pod with an empty hand while the maintenance panel is open to bring up an interface for adding and removing installed systems. You can't replace a pod's armor once it is already built. You can also change the gas mix used for the engine and the gas mix used for the pod's life support system, though this doesn't have much of a use yet other then to suffocate the people in the pod with plasma.

You will need:

 Pod frame kit
 Pod Circuitry
 Pod Control Interface
 Engine Manifold
 Armor (such as Light Pod Armor or Heavy Pod Armor)
 Wires
 Metal
 5 sheets of Reinforced Glass
 Wrench
 Welder

To build:

 Get the Pod Frame Kit. 
 Deploy the box and you should have a jumble of metal.
 Wrench the mass of metal. It should look less like a pile of junk.
 Wrench again. This time it should look like a functional but unsecured frame of a space pod.
 Weld.
 Insert Wires
 Place Pod Circuitry inside.
 Add Metal
 Place Engine Manifold.
 Put Armor on the pod frame.
 Weld.
 Place Pod Control Interface
 Place 5 sheets of Reinforced Glass

Note: Be advised since it is a 64x64 sprite you have to stand on the South West corner of the pod sprite in order to construct it.

Light fixtures

These fixtures, installed by Nanotrasen or otherwise, are controlled by the local APC. However, custom fixtures cannot be attached to reinforced walls. Light tubes may be obtained from boxes (ask the janitor) or a general manufacturer.

You will need:

 A regular wall
 Two metal sheets
 A light tube

To build:

 Turn the metal sheets into one set of light fixture parts.
 Attach the parts to a regular wall.
 Insert the light tube.

Building and fixing disposal pipes

Like most things in Space Station 13, the plumbing system is surprisingly deep. A skilled space plumber can set you up for a wild ride that'll send you racing through most of the station and spit you out from a mailbox. Now you can be that skilled plumber.

The building blocks

There's a few pipe dispensers scattered around the station. The most easily accessible one can be found in disposals. Pipes come in 8 variations, 5 of which the dispensers will provide:

Straight - Straight tube.
Bent - Tube bent at a 90 degree angle.
Junction - A three-way junction. The arrow indicates where items exit.
Y-junction - A three-way junction with another exit point.
Trunk - Entry and exit point for pipes. Disposal and mail chutes come pre-connected to these, but players can't connect on their own.
Mail-junction - Not available from the dispenser. A three-way junction with a filter that only allows items to pass through. People and creatures will be diverted away into the side-pipe. Visually distinguished from regular junctions by a red dot on the pipe.
Controlled pipe segments - Specialized equipment available to mechanics.

Managing your pipes

Pipes come in four states:

Free - Can be moved, rotated and flipped over by right-clicking on them.
Wrenched - Wrenched to the floor. Immobile and inoperable. You can walk over them and rotate them.
Welded - Welded to the floor. Immobile and can't be rotated. Fully operable.
Broken - Welded to the floor. Inoperable. Must be welded at all ends to remove.

You need three tools. A crowbar to remove the tiles covering the floor. This exposes existing pipes and lets you place new pipes. A wrench to fasten free pipes. A welding tool to make wrenched pipes operable or to loosen welded pipes.

Controlling the flow

Take these tips to heart and you'll be a plumbing like a champion in no time.

  • T-ray scanners show you pipes hidden under floor tiles.
  • Always wrench the pipe in place before welding it. Poorly secured pipes will break the floor tile covering it and fall out of place.
  • Items will follow the pipeline from chute to exit point as long as every piece is connected, nothing is broken and there's no blockage.
  • Items entering a junction from the wrong end (the side with the exit arrow), will randomly go out one of the two other sides.
  • Fat people are poorly suited for pipes and can easily create a blockage. Blockages can be cleared by unwelding the blocked section.
  • Pipelines ending in a regular pipe will shoot things out in a straight line. Trunks eject items in random directions.
  • Combine with programmable electronics components to make some truly wild rides.

Breakin'

For more, see Hacking

Note that almost everything can be destroyed with a bomb.. but we hope you don't get that desperate.

Walls, Doors, and Floors

Airlock

 Screwdriver on Airlock
 Click Airlock (without screwdriver in hand)
 Have a Multitool in hand to test which wire does what
 Have a Wirecutter to cut or mend desired wire(s)
 If test light is on and bolts are down, pulse the wires to raise bolts.
 Crowbar opens unpowered doors with raised bolts
 Screwdriver the door to close it up when finished.
 Crowbar also opens powered doors, whose test lights are off,and
 the bolts up.

Door wiring is randomized per game, but all doors have the same wires. Using a multitool to pulse wires will only work if the door has power. Cutting wires can rid the door of some features (AI Control for instance) until the said wire is mended.

Ghetto Door hacking works on all doors:

 Screwdriver on some random Airlock
 Wirecutters on Airlock
 Cut everything until the bolts drop, make a note of which color does this
 Leave
 Screwdriver the Airlock you want to open
 Wirecutters, cut every other wire except that one
 Crowbar the door

Firedoors

 Crowbar to Open/Close
 Welder to seal Closed

Metal Grille

 Wirecutter to destroy, welder to remove what's left OR
 Screwdriver to remove/re-secure

Some grilles are electrified, as such it would be wise to have Insulated Gloves on before attempting to destroy or dislodge it. Alternatively, hit it repeatedly with a shard of glass to avoid a shock.

Glass Windows

 Welder to break OR
 Screwdriver to loosen, then push out OR
 Bashing object to break

Reinforced Windows

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Screwdriver
 OR
 Bash in with heavy object(Fire Extinguisher takes approximately five hits)

Regular Walls

 Welder
 Screwdriver on 'Wall' to dislodge girders OR
 Wrench to dismantle girders
Note that the metal plates created by doing this obscure most of the 'wall', so be sure you are clicking on the right thing.

Reinforced Walls

 Wirecutter
 Screwdriver
 Welder
 Crowbar
 Wrench
 Welder
 Crowbar
 Screwdriver
 Wirecutter
 Wrench
Note: Wait 5-8 secs for each to complete.

Hidden Doors - Regular and Reinforced Walls

To disassemble:

 Screwdriver
 Wrench

Computers

Normal computer:

To Break:

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Wirecutters
 Screwdriver
 Crowbar (removes circuit board)
 Wrench
 Welder

Note: Not all computers can be dismantled.

ThinkDOS computer:

To Break:

 Screwdriver
 Crowbar
 Crowbar (removes hard drive)
 Wirecutters
 Crowbar (removes all modules)
 Screwdriver
 Crowbar (removes motherboard)
 Wrench
 Welder

APC

 Screwdriver
 Click on APC and drag the windows away from each other so you can see both at once
 Get wirecutters out of your toolbox/backpack/pockets and use them on the APC with the windows still open

There are four wires. Two short out the APC when cut, one cuts AI control when cut, and one does nothing when cut, but unlocks the APC when pulsed with a multitool. There's a chance you'll get shocked when cutting wires, so either have insulated gloves or do it in an isolated area where no-one will find you. South maintenance is a good choice.

Fire Alarms, Security Cameras, and Atmosphere Alarms

 Wirecutter to Break, and Fix

Manufacturers

Keep in mind that completely dismantled fabricators can't be replaced without the help of electronics!

You will need:

 A wrench
 A crowbar
 A wirecutters

To break:

 Open the outer cover with the wrench.
 Use the crowbar to pry off the cover.
 Remove the wiring with the wirecutters.
 Undo the final bolts with the wrench.

Obsolete Junk

Removed or otherwise obsolete construction plans kept for reference.

Fixing Propulsion Thrusters

Technically working, but shuttle engines cannot be damaged anymore. It was previously possible to immobilize them by disabling the thrusters.

You will need:

 A screwdriver
 EVA gear (optional, but recommended)

To fix:

 Use the screwdriver on the thruster to secure its outer frame.
 Do the same with the other engine, if necessary.